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Writing this on Thursday October 22 from Sora, but will attempt to backtrack and fill you in as I experienced the travel.
Monday October 19
From writings on bus from Perugia to Assissi
Perugia is a large town with its most ancient sites at top and center of hilltop town w/ newer buildings flowing out and below in concentric circles. There is a fairly large brick factory ( red) on the edge of Perugia close to the major highways.
I entered Perugai yesterday w/ full backpack and biting cold (48F) in middle of Chocolate Festival. As luck would have it, the way to my hostel was right down the main street at the top of the town (fortunately w/ series of escalators to reach it) thru this wall to wall crush of people. Note to claustrophobic - do NOT come to Perugia during Choc Fest. It was especially busy because it was a Sunday and families with babies in strollers and dogs on leashes (again w/ the dogs!) were out along with tourists from Italy, Europe and beyond who came in especially for this. I sampled: hot chocolate (rich and wonderful), sacher torte, chocolate cake and chocolate liqueur. I passed by chocolate beer, pepper flavored hot chocolate, every kind of chocolate candy with or w/out nuts and other fillings. there was music, DJs (MTV actually) classes, contests and something that involved choc points that would put you in a drawing for a car, a vacation and other prizes.
This hostel was more basic for 15E/night - sheets and towels rental on top of room ( I got to use my silk sleepsack and microfibre towel for first time) , no soap in restrooms, and no breakfast (although there was a coin operated cappucino/hot drink machine) Plus hostel is entirely closed to the guests from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. each day (saves on staff cost) hence my trip to Assissi.
I'm looking out the window and the sky looks threatening, so I hope I won't be wishing for the umbrella I left at the hostel w/ my luggage.
Yesterday on the train from Tuscany we passed thru Cortona (the town filmed in 'Under the Tuscan Sun') It did not look at all like anything in the film but to be fair, what I saw was by the railway tracks. probably not the best location. However in areas of Perugia and now, Assissi, I could easily see houses like 'Bramasole'
I am currently sitting in the church of St. Ruffino high at the top of the town. Fortunately, the bus took us way up here. I will have to walk down to main station or wait for bus here at 5 p.m. It is cold, windy and rainy outside - wearing 2 long sleeved Tshirts, a sweater, a scarf and my new leather jacket and it is not enough to keep out the cold esp when I have not gloves and only cotton pants and short socks. So I am sitting here in the smaller, more modest but no less beautiful stone church enjoying the quiet and writing. It is not an elaborate church compared to the Duomo of Florence and Siena. this church is not trying to be the biggest, the tallest with the most mosaics or frescoes. The dome ceiling is unadorned, the ceilings and walls are a simple ivory with some darker tan used as relief on some of the small alcoves. The floor is a sort of herringbone style stone again in shades of brown. The altars (3) have tall marble columns flanking the detailed and somber altarworks of the Crucifixion and the removal of Christ from the cross. There are no stained glass windows and only a few statues.
What this church does have is the remains of a much older church below it. St. Ruffino was refurbished in the 16th century on the interior (I did find off to the side one large chapel in the Baroque style - lots of ceiling paintings - gilt gold and swirly plaster) The exterior reflects the style of its origins of 1140 and deep below , in the 1800s, another stone church was found. Parts have been excavated so that visitors can go below and appreciate a much older stone (like Irish stone country fences) construct.
The gift store at San Rufino (every church, every museum has at least one gift store) gave me a nice map of Assissi in English. I see now why I was smart to leave the bus with the other tourists. We were dropped at the top of the town and only had to follow the streets downward for an easy stroll thru the town to other piazzas and eventually to the Basiclica of St. Francis and the 1st, lower bus stops. St. Francis, built in 1230, less than 100 years after San Rufino (St. Francis, St. Clare and Pope Leo were all baptized in S. Rufino) is much more statuesque (with an upper and lower basilica) and much more decorated (Icons, frescoes, statues) It is the final resting place of St. Francis and a number of brothers from the order he founded. I've noticed that these churches can have minor altars everywhere. St. Francis has chapels above and below.
There are some wonderful views of Assisi and from Assissi throughout from top to bottom. All the buildings seem to be made of that wonderful chipped stone look. everywhere you turn is a stunning photo. I can see where with the right clothes this would be a terrific place to stay. I did break down just before lunch and buy some knit gloves for 4 Eu. Not bad and well worth it for the nice warm feeling it gave me.
Now at 3:45 and waiting for a bus that won't come till 5:30, I have removed jacket, scarf, hat and gloves. The hot sun is beating down on me and all I want to do is stretch out on this stone bench but I don't think the two ladies sitting here would appreciate that. I have bought 2 bottles of wateer (1Eu each!) to consume while I wait. Not feeling the best and getting that achy, sneezy muscles sore feeling that means my farmstay coming up is just what I need. I'm to arrive in Sora tomorrow evening by train but will check and see if bus might not be better.
- comments
Tony Ercolani I have news for you .. This is PISA (not Perugia).