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This week Rach has been suffering from all kinds of ailments. It all started from hiking up to the peace pagoda, since then there hasn't been a part of her body that is functioning properly. It's been like living with Daniel-Day-Lewis in 'My Left Foot'. This has been hard work for me as it's required me to dish out an unnatural amount of sympathy. I lasted about a week before becoming immune to her pain and by the time we were on the bus to Kathmandu I was long gone. Perfect time for Rach to get a 7 hour bout of travel sickness! To be fair when I wasn't sleeping I did hold her 'full' sick bag.
The actual journey to Kathmandu was picturesque, packed with incredible scenery; turquoise rivers flowed through steep valley gorges covered with dense foliage, all framed by the white peaks of the Himalayas. Kathmandu is a sprawling city, in the last 10 years the population has exploded due to the rural folk moving in, seeking safety from the revolution (I over heard that on the bus). We stayed in an area called Thamel - bars, restaurants, shops a plenty.
On one of our days we ventured up to Swayambhuuath, a Buddhist temple that soars above the city offering some nice views. This was not what caught my attention, it was because, interestingly, the shrine also went by another name… MONKEY TEMPLE! The lonely planet promised gangs of monkeys sliding down poles, carrying flick knives, clicking their fingers in unison and mobbing anyone who dares enter their sacred domain. - Sure there were a few of them knocking about, but they were pretty lethargic and bored looking as they sat around eating nuts. I started to regret climbing up the steep steps to the summit especially as this had encouraged Rach to air her ailments once again. But then a flurry of commotion, a flash of fur, and ear piercing screams erupt. BOOM! Full scale monkey fight in progress, and who pray tell is at the centre of this skirmish? Only our plucky heroine, the ever majestic Rachel Naylor of course! Me thinks I needn't panic, nor rush to her aid as she has got this one covered, she will merely kick the primate in the cranium or swing another by its tail to dissipate this fracas… Or why not freak right out, bury your into the generously bosomed, unsuspecting middle-aged Nepali lady that is standing next to you, hug her tightly and hope it all goes away. The later was her preferred choice. It was border line abuse!
The rest of the week was relaxing as we resumed our status quo of eating, pottering and sleeping. On the penultimate night we booked a table at a well renowned traditional (and might I add, expensive) Nepalese restaurant. It is an evening that would act as a precursor for Bangkok, highlighting that I don't really belong or more accurately shouldn't be allowed in luxury environments. The restaurant is very traditional and religious, so shoes must be removed, food must be offered to Buddha, and you sit cross legged on the floor on these little cushions. You must also cleanse you hands in the infused rose petal oil, as you do this the famous former guest stare back at you - Prince Charles, Hillary Clinton, Jimmy Carter and Demi Moore to name a few. Led to our table the atmosphere is tranquil, incense is burning and Buddhist music flows through the air. We sit for the first of our 6 courses, I face the window with my back to the other occupants of the restaurant. The food and service is lovely and as the night winds to an end we are cozy in our surroundings. This is shattered when 'for a joke' with a tooth pick I p****the sole of Rach's foot, at the exact same time, unaware to me, the waitress is leaning over my shoulder, down to clear the plates of the table. Rach instinctively jumps and screams loudly into the poor lady's face. Shocked the poor waitress scurries away, leaving us facing the silent stares of the entire restaurant.
We leave Nepal flying to Delhi and then on to Bangkok to stay in the Tower Club at Lebua for Rachel's birthday. Now this really is the fancy hotel, it's incredible. The main attraction: free 5-star food and as many pina-colada's as you can drink. We obviously miss breakfast as that would mean Rach getting up before 12 but head to the lounge for lunch. I become slightly self-conscious, I'm not made for situations like this, I stand there in my battered converse really not wanting to stand out, the whole chair pushing and napkin placing thing makes me uncomfortable. We head to the gourmet buffet, there is salmon and sushi, pork belly and dim-sum, basically some very nice food. I try not to fill my plate but I want a bit of everything, excited like a child. I place a pile of pork belly on my plate and like the uncouth Cornish fool I am, top it with soup. I didn't read the adjacent label, just piled it on. Rach catches me and questions it, I try to deny it but the soup bowls and bread rolls only convict me further. She's laughing uncontrollably, literally crying with laughter, and causing a stir with the other guests. I don't know what to do, I panic and grab a load of crab cakes to cover the mess on my plate and storm off hoping no one else saw me.
Apart from that episode, everything ran smoothly at the Bangkok hotel, and we had the best time. Next stop, Hanoi!
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