Well, here I am at the end of a month on Isabela , the largest of the islands in the Galapagos. Having said that it consists of one very small town where I am staying and a village up in the hills. A total population of 2000, all of whom seem to know each other or be related. The people here are so kind and friendly. Nothing is too much troube for them. You need Coke in a bar and they have run out. No problem, they take a Sprite or Fanta or whatever off their shelf, run over to the local store, swap it for a Coke and come back. Want a cold beer and theirs is still warm. Repeat the process. No change for a big dollar bill. Just leave you in the shop, run down the road to where ever, get some change and come back. Some how or other I don´t think this way of life will catch on at home. It is absolutely delightful. There is no crime or none that is obvious. The local police have one radio between them that sits in the office. They do have two motor cycles that they use to ferry all the local people to and fro on, particularly the pretty young girls. I am sure they are their sisters or cousins though! Whilst we have been here there has been a Fiesta. Horses racing in the streets, dancing all night until the morning in the local sports stadium. They sure know how to party. Not sure what dances I have learned but it was fun....

The tortoise breeding centre has been interesting. When we first arrived four weeks ago there were fifteen volunteers. Far more than was needed and Louis, who is in charge whilst his boss is away, is hard pressed to find us things to do. However wqe are now down to three volunteers and as I leave today that leaves two.... The walk to the centre takes about half an hour in the morning, through the national park and over some lagoons. One of the lagoons is jealously guarded by a tribe(?) of iguanas who appear like little trolls at the start of the bridge. they are cute. The breeding centre has tortoises there bought in from the wild for various reasons. Seventeen of them were caught up in a volcanic eruption and were airlifted out. Some of them have obvious cream marks on their skin and shells where they were burnt. These tortoises together with the other species from the other islands are used for breeding. The young tortoises do not do well in the wild as their shells are very soft and until they are five years old they cannot be released. It was fun looking after the babies. They are so small when they hatch they sit on the palm of your hand. They will not mate for between 25 and 30 years then can live to be over one hundred years old. Goodness knows what changes will take place in their lifetime. It´s great to think you are in some small way helping to keep these magnificent creatures from possible extinction. I´ve helped weigh and measure the babies as well as feed and clean out their pens. Feeding the big boys and girls is fun. Particularly when they are behind a gate you want to open to push their feed barrow through. Ever tried moving a ton of tortoise. We just hop over the wall with a bit of feed and oh so slowly persuade them that they want to follow you. Great fun.

Isabela the island on which I am staying is the biggest of the Galapagos and has five active volcanoes. The last time one went pop was in Otober, 2005. We rode up there, 10 kms each way on one of the slimmest horses I have ever ridden. She also had a foal at foot who came too and who constantly wanted a drink from mum. It was interesting to say the least. Then we walked for about 40 minutes to the edge of the volcano. It was different to White Island in New Zealand. This was darker and more satanic. Films about the end of the world could be made here. It was also pouring with rain which made it seem more frightening too. A few nights later we thought it was going to go pop again as we could see smoke coming from the volcano but it was only because of heavy rain causing lots of steam to escape.

The wildlife here is spectacular. Lakes with flamingoes that return every night at 6 00 pm. Lagoons where you can swim with sea lions, penguins and iguanas. . I believe this is the only place in the world where marine iguanas live or so I have been told. Pelicans swoop and dive as you swim., Snorkelling you can see, turtles, rays, fish. There are albatross, blue footed boobies, sharks. It´s all quite special. One moon lit night walked about a mile along the beach and saw a turtle come up from the sea, go the the dunes, build her nest that took her so much time you felt you wanted to get a shovel and help out. She laid her eggs, covered her nest and returned to th sea. In all about three hours plus. It was such a privilege to see her and something I will never forget.

Leave on Saturday to go on an eight day cruise around the rest of the Islands. Let´s hope they are as special as this place.