15/05/08 - Quito to Galapagos

This morning we head to the Galapagos. We were met at the airport by our friendly travel agent who ensured a hassle free check in.After about 4 hours including a short stop in Guayaquil we arrived at Baltra Island in the Galapagos. We were met at the airport and taken to Puerto Ayora on the adjacent island of Santa Cruz. Here in Puerto Ayora harbor we boarded our boat, dropped our gear off and then headed back to shore for our first excursion to the tortoise sanctuary. Here we observed the huge Galapagos tortoise in there natural habitat.These tortoise are wondrous pre-historic looking creatures that move at there own pace.Where ever they do move though they flatten all the vegetation as the males can weigh up to 500kg.After our visit we headed back to the boat with a brief stop off to see a lava tube. Nice.In the evening we went a shore for a few beers with one of the other lads from the Dragoman trip before heading back to the boat for our midnight departure.

16/05/08 Friday

Our first visit today was post office bay on the island of Floreana.Post office bay is the sight where a wooden barrel was placed in the 18th century by the crew of a whaling ship.Since then it has been used as a post office by mariners and tourists.There is no stamp required as the postal system operates by tourists or mariners going through the letters/post cards and taking to deliver by hand any that are addressed to near where they live.After this we explored another lava tube which was quite impressive.Next was a chance to do some snorkelling from the beach.The variety of marine life increased as we headed towards and then along some of the rocky coastline.The highlight at this spot was the two sea lions that came out to play.They would swim around you with that curious ¨what and who are you look¨.It was an amazing hour that I will not soon forget.All this before lunch!After lunch and a very short sail we went snorkelling around the Devils Crown volcanic cone.This islet consists of an eroded volcanic crater that owes its present form to the strong wave action.While snorkelling here we saw our first shark (white tip) and another sea lion who was happy to strike a pose or two for us.After far to short an hour we re boarded the Angelique to sail to Punta Cormorant on the other side of the island.Here we went ashore to observe very brightly coloured Flamingos, royal terns, blue footed boobies, migrating birds, and vegetation with a high tolerance for salt.Along the trail we came to a beautiful beach where we saw the nesting site for sea turtles on a beautiful beach.On the rocky parts of the beach we observed colourful crabs (located on all islands).After a great day we headed back to the boat for a beer or three and dinner.

17/05/08 Saturday

Today we visit the island of Espanola.In the morning we went to Gardener Bay which has an excellent beach.The main attraction here is the sea lions that line this beach.There are many harems which contain many females, juveniles, and of course the dominant male who is always keeping an eye on his females and kids.The sea lions are always entertaining to watch.When they emerge from the sea they just lie in the surf and wait for a bigger wave to toss them higher up the beach.It must be hard work walking on those flippers.We also went snorkelling from the beach.We swam out about 150m offshore to a rocky out crop.We swam around here for a while and saw yet again an abundance of marine life including parrot fish, surgeon fish, angel fish, grouper, stingray, and a moray.There was also the ever present sea lion that seemed to be playing with anything he could find on the sea floor (including a sea urchin).After lunch we went snorkelling on a little island just north of Espanola.It was great as the highlights here were a fully grown Diamond ray and a pair of Octopus mating.Was well worth the time! After snorkelling we moved to Punta Suarez (still on Espanola) for some island trekking.Here we saw an impressive array of wild life.We were fortunate enough to see wave albatross nesting and performing dances.When a pair of albatross is re united they dance with each other for up to 30 minutes or so.Very Romantic!Albatross maintain a life long dedication to each other.This is something that is becoming all too rare in human society.Blue footed boobies were also in abundance with a few pairs performing the mating dance.This is quite an entertaining dance to watch.Along the southern shoreline we were treated to a spectacular view from the cliffs.This included many varieties of soaring birds and marine iguanas all grouped together in the sun.From the cliffs you also get an impressive view of a blow hole where the water spouts up to 25m into the air.The spray blows over the cliff top and onto the land where many birds reside.I think they choose this spot on purpose as the suns intensity can be oppressive.

18/05/08 Sunday

This morning we went ashore at Santa Fe where we took in the cactus forest and some more bird life including the mocking bird which is (an follows you) everywhere in the Galapagos.Later we went snorkelling and again were impressed with the variety of marine life.Some new sighting included two species of sea turtles, one of which we swam with.We also came across new varieties of rays.Very nice.While relaxing after lunch at South Plazas I saw a Galapagos shark (about 6 feet) swimming very close to a sea lion colony.Being the only one who saw the shark I started to wonder if I was seeing things.The sea lions, particularly the young ones did seem to be on edge though.Later, we went ashore to see some wonderful land iguanas and some more bird life.As we past nearby the rocky shore line we saw three adolescent sea lions (herded by the dominant male) come rocketing out of the water.The dominant male stayed partly in the water barking what could only be a warning.Only moments after the big male had emerged partly from the water, a six foot Galapagos shark appeared about two metres behind him swimming parallel to the shoreline.The Galapagos shark hunts the juvenile sea lions.An adult sea lion is often the same length as a Galapagos shark and possibly (esp. the males) heavier.The Galapagos shark does grow to three metres though!As the shark swam behind the male sea lion he turned and went straight into the water, presumably to hound the shark till it left.The rest of the walk was great.Later we sailed to within about 30 minutes of Canal de Itabaca where we would farewell the passengers (except for Ian and myself) and welcome some new passengers the following morning.Tonight we were treated to a hunting demonstration by the local sea lions.It was really amazing to watch the sea lions hide under our boat waiting for fish attracted by our lights to come within range.The fight was not short though as the fish they seemed to favour were flying fish.As they were chased, the flying fish would leap from the water a fly for up to 30m just above the water in a desperate attempt to avoid being eaten.Unfortunately for the flying fish, the sea lions were wise to there aeronautical skills.When the flying fish flew through the air the sea lions would give chase and porpoise to keep an eye on there target.Chases could be short or last up to 30 seconds with the sea lions having a rather high success rate.After seeing sea lions lazing about many a time during the day I now feel a little guilty for thinking them lazy.It is also very worthy to note that while all of this was going on there were up to four 5 foot Galapagos sharks cruising around our boat.Only the lone juvenile sea lion was careful not to venture to close to the sharks.The adults paid no attention to the sharks whatsoever.One sea lion went so close to a shark that its tail fins brushed the shark's nose.The shark turned its head a little but did nothing.Crazy and amazing.The funniest scene for the night was definitely when the pelican went for a fish at the same time as a sea lion.As these two were scraping it out for the fish, one of the Galapagos sharks made a B line for the pelican.The pelican saw the shark at the last moment and wisely decided to forget the fish and take flight.What a great night.

19/05/08 Monday

Early this morning we venture out onto North Seymour.Here we saw the largest colony of magnificent frigate birds in the Galapagos.The male are impressive as they inflate an air sack on the front of there neck to the size of a balloon in order to attract a female.The males choose a nesting site and then try to attract one of the fussy females flying overhead.There were also a lot of blue footed boobies here which were again impressive both physically and in there character.After picking up new passengers in Baltra harbour we went to Bachas beach where there was not much wild life but the scenery was great.

20/05/08 Tuesday

Today we visit Genovesa.This is the only island with a colony of red footed boobies.They do not dance like there blue footed cousins but are no less interesting.They share the island with frigate birds, swallow-tailed gulls, red billed tropic birds, storm petrels, and the Nazca (formerly masked) boobie.The Galapagos dove can also be seen if you keep an eye out.The only bird we did not see that we were looking for was the short-eared owl.You can't win em all J.We went snorkelling in the afternoon but the water was very murky.We did manage to see a school of golden rays swim under us.There formation was impressive - straight rows with perfect separation.One of our group was stung by a jelly fish which cut our snorkelling short.This was a blessing for us though as we were snorkelling along a cliff where a lot of birds nest so there was a lot of crap floating in the water…Yuk.

21/05/08 Wednesday - Tower Island

This morning we are in Sullivan bay where we have a pre breakfast trek to a lava field.It is an amazing landscape to walk on.The patterns formed by the lava are amazing.The shapes and textures of trees which once existed can be seen as well as hornitos which are caused when pockets of water or gas trapped under the lava explode.The Sullivan bay lava is known as Panoehoe (Hawaiian for Rope).This thin skinned lavas molten material cools down after an eruption causing the surface material to buckle creating a rope like appearance.Panoehoe lava is rare to the rest of the world but is common to the volcanoes of Hawaii and the Galapagos Islands.I never thought solidified lava could be so amazing.We also saw the Galapagos penguin and marine iguanas here which was a treat!After our lava experience we went snorkelling which was great.We saw plenty of marine life.A sea lion snuck up behind me and scared the hell out of me.When I finally saw him she just stared for a bit and then swam off.The highlight without a doubt though was swimming with the penguins.They just turned up in front of us and then later followed us for a bit.One came so close that Ian, who did not see the penguin, nearly hit it with his foot.Such funny little fellers.The afternoon was spent sailing back to Puerto Ayora where tomorrow after a morning visit to the Charles Darwin station we will bid farewell to this magnificent place.

22/05/08 Thursday

I will not say much about about our visit to the Charles Darwin station.I have nothing critical to say.It is just hard to fully appreciate the animals they have in captivity when you have seen so many animals in the wild.The work they do is tremendous though and many people volunteer at the centre which is great.We did see lonesome George though.He is the last of his kind left on the planet and despite many attempts to have him breed with other turtle species, at 85 it is not looking very good for him.After our visit it was time to bid farewell to the Galapagos Islands.This place is amazing and I would recommend a visit for sure!!!