After a day relaxing and doing washing, the first night back in Auckland was all about watching ´The Flying Scotsman`with Nick and Tracey at the cinema. The film tells the story behind Graeme Obree`s attempts to break the one hour cycling record on a bike made from washing machine parts. It is an inspirational story and well worth watching. The evening was of course free thanks to Anna being the duty manager.

The next day I ventured into Auckland to meet up with Rob and Anna, my partners in crime from the Stray trip. After yet more reenactment of Jason, Jack and Lara we really should know better) it was time to bid them farewellas I had to head home and get ready for Mum and Dad´s arrival. It was really great to see them both again after a few months away from home and they brought with them some much needed clothing for the trip ahead.

The first full day with the folks saw us all heading out for a breakfast at a cafe called Sausalito where they employ ´smiley happy people. From there we made our way to Mairangi Bay where Nick used to live and then onto a shopping centre before it was time to head home and get ready for the day´s main event: Tracey´s birthday bash. It was an extra special occasion as it was the first time our parents would meet Tracey´s and thus I had to make sure the buffon was done suitably. We ate at a cracking restaurant which does the best potato gnocchi in town before heading back for Christmas cake at Nick and Tracey´s. Yes, you did read that right.

From Thursday until the Saturday, the five of us made our way out of Auckland harbour to the island of Waiheke. The island is where the rich and famous Aucklanders have their weekend places and it is soon easy to see why. The island is littered with small coves where you can lay on secluded beaches and rolling hillsides. Some (most of) the properties are in the several million price range. We were staying in a nice place perched on a hillside in the main town of Oneroa and we spent the two days there having barbecues, playing cards, strolling along the beaches, touring the island admiring the properties and basically just chilling out. Our final night on the island saw us don our swankiest gear and head to the Mudbrick restaurant which looks back across to Auckland. The venue, the food, and the view were all exquisite with the food being possibly the nicest, and most expensive, I have ever tried.  After a starter of carrot and coconut soup it was time for a main course of chicken which puts Nandos to shame before a dessert of chocolate fondant. It was absolutely delicious and a really pleasant evening thanks to grandma - she was paying.

After returning from Waiheke on the ferry we dropped our baggage off back home and then headed out to meet Les and Nicole, two of Nick´s friends from Pukekohe. We ate yet more good food, this time it was satay chicken pizza, before heading back through Auckland and to bed.

The following day Mum and Dad left Auckland for Christchurch for their grand tour of the South Island and the next day I went back into Auckland to meet up with my ´guess who´ partners Rob and Anna. It was their final day in NZ and so we spent it touring round the city centre and reminiscing about our adventures in the south. They left to fly on to Fiji and I went off to meet Tracey. We were off to celebrate her dad´s birthday with an Indian meal, yet another great eatery in Auckland, before I went back to the cinema to watch ´The Flying Scotsman´ for a second time. Again, it was courtesy of Anna being at work.

The rest of the week was spent either watching negotiation films with Nick, looking around Auckland city centre or visiting the Auckland Museum in the domain. After four different museums in New Zealand I think it is safe to say I am all musuemed out and there isn´t a thing I don´t know about Maori history.

On the Friday night I went round to Anna`s for tea before we made our way into Auckland to see her boyfriend´s band play. It was a great gig with three different acts in a really atmospheric back street basement bar.

A further visit to the cinema the following day, this time to see ´Snow Cake´, another film worth watching if you get chance, was capped with a night out at the boss from the cinema´s birthday bash at the Auckland University. The event was karaoke and after avoiding taking the mic for most of the evening, I successfully brought an end to the night with my rendition of the Killers ´When You Were Young´. I´d like to think I brought a whole new dimension to the song but don´t think I will be doing karaoke for a long long time to come.

The following morning saw me up bright and early to catch the ferry across to the island of Rangitoto, one of 50 volcanoes in the Auckland area. The island consists of just the volcano with no permanent inhabitants on the island other than a wild furry monkey. The hike to the top was supposed to take an hour but in reality it took much less and from the summit, some 250metres up, the views across the bay were pretty special. I´m sure they´d have been even better if it had´t been so cloudy. That would be the cloud that hung around the whole hour I spent at the top and which then cleared when I had made my way half way down.  The rest of the time was all about exploring the lava fields and eating lunch on a secluded beach. The island was easy to navigate and was well worth the visit.

I spent the Monday getting ready for my trip away before my final Monday night visit to the cinema, this time to see the dull and rather disturbing ´History Boys´. My advice is save your money and go and see something else - TFS!

Early on Tuesday morning I made my way out of Auckland and up along the coastline towards Paihia and the Bay of Islands. We stopped off along the way to view Kauri trees - the largest trees in New Zealand. After that we visited a bird sanctuary where they have baby kiwi birds and a talking tui named Woofwoof. He christened himself and he really does talk which is quite remarkable. From talking birds to funky toilets, New Zealand really does have it all. The Hundertwasser toilets are Gaudi-esque in style and have to top the poll of funkiest places to pay a call! We eventually arrived in the town of Paihia, the main access point to the Bay of Islands and it was here where I was to stay for three nights. The hostel was pretty average and the bbq they put on didn´t live up to much but they did have a quiz night. The whole event turned into a bit of a debacle with there being some stupid tasks and questions but that was after I had won a free boat trip out to one of the areas most famous sights, The Hole in the Rock. Lets just say it helps to have knowledge of islands in the Pacific Ocean, most notably Japan.

The next morning saw me rising early yet again, this time it was to board a Mercedes Unimog 4x4 to journey up to New Zealand´s most northerly point, Cape Reinga. The long ride was broken up with several stops but none where as good as the two main events of the day. Cape Reinga was beautiful, and when I arrived, it was deserted. It meant that I managed to grab some decent pictures of the lighthouse and the rips where the Tasman and the Pacific meet. From the lighthouse we made our way to a lunch stop on a beautiful beach where I went for a ´paddle´. Our next stop was a mammoth sand dune on 90 mile beach. The dunes in the area are perfect for trying out sand boarding which is as simple as sports come. You need a body board and a sand dune and you´re all set. I ventured down the slope first and it was awesome, plus I didn´t fall off. It was so good that I went three more times and even made the stream at the bottom. Trying not to boast, I was the only one not to fall off all day and the only one to make the stream. Guess you either have it or you don´t!.

After breaking my belt on the final run and getting my trousers full of sand it was time to head down 90 mile beach stopping along the way to take photographs. From the beach we made a few more small stops along the way home, the best being at a fish and chip shop where they claimed to do the best fish and chips in the world. Although it wasn´t the best, they expected you to pay a dollar for a small sachet of vinegar! It did taste good though  and was as cheap as, well, chips.

The following day I went to cash in my prize from the quiz and booked myself on a speedboat tour out to The Hole in the Rock. I was joined by Gareth, a fellow passenger from the Stray bus, and together we jumped on ´The Exciter´ and sped our way out to sea. The Bay of Islands where really beautiful and the main attraction was pretty cool. All the time we were out speeding around, the captain had us listening to rock anthems, and with the wind blowing through my hair/blowing my hair off it was a pretty awesome adventure.

Several of the islands are privately owned but the Department of Conservation has made it legal for anyone to access them. One such island is home to some rich guy who owns Sky in this part of the world and his home is one long sloping building built on 11 levels with a glass roof. His garage isn´t for his car, it´s for his helicopter and in his garden is a sculpture his son received from Bill Clinton. His home is linked to the guest houses on the island by a network of underground tunnels and because when you are stinkinly rich you don´t want to walk anywhere, he moves around these tunnels in a golf cart. The only problem is his wife can´t drive very well and she can´t turn the cart around so he fitted a turntable on the pier so she can simply drive down and be turned around at the end of the pier whilst tourists sail past. Not a bad life really, is it?

That night we decided to not watch Sky and after having pasta with veg, Gareth and I sat down to watch the second best film of all time; ´The Bourne Supremacy´. It is only beaten into first place by ´The Bourne Identity´ and it may be dethroned by the forthcoming ´The Bourne Ultimatum´ which is released in the UK on the 3rd August. Coincidently, I return home on the 1st August and other than the usual (family, friends and Asda orange and grapefruit juice), it is about the only good thing to look forward to coming home to.

After the film had finished, I made my way back to my new hostel via a romantic walk for one along the beach. The beach was deserted and the sky was crystal clear and a mass of stars. It was absolutely beautiful and all that was missing was a woman.

The final day in the Bay of Islands was spent in Russell, a small town situated just across the bay from Paihia and it is where Gareth and I found ourselves early that morning. After the ferry ride across, we began exploring all that the town had to offer. First stop was a lookout which offered great views over the islands before we wandered around a church with musket bullet holes in it and visited the first licensed bar in New Zealand. Having already eaten and not really wanting to drink so early in the day, Gareth and I passed the time by playing pool. Russell is very quaint and beautiful but is far too quiet for anyone between the ages of fourteen and forty.

The evening transfer back to Auckland wasn`t much to talk about but once back in Auckland it was a mad rush to get ready to go out. I had been invited out by Anna to `family drinks` at a Belgian beer cafe in Takapuna. It was a really pleasant evening and it was nice to once again meet her family.

Saturday was all about visiting the Bridgeway for one last film, this time it was `Driving Lessons`. Let`s just say `The Bourne Identity`s` position is safe. From the cinema I hot-footed it into Auckland to buy a belt so I could actually keep my jeans up instead of them being around my ankles, as well as doing some other shopping ahead of Mum and Dad`s arrival back in Auckland. That night we went for a really nice meal at a different Belgian beer cafe, this time is Ponsonby, before having coffee at the Hilton on the harbour side.

The following morning we did brunch in Devonport before climbing up to the place where the guns where mounted to protect Auckland from invasion during the war. The battery is in a prime location and gives you great views back across to Auckland, out to the Coramandel peninsula and to the island of Rangitoto.

From Devonport we made our way to see Tracey`s parents for afternoon coffee before heading out to the Indian restaurant I have mentioned several times before. The best lamb and chicken kormas with naan bread. Delicious and so ridiculously cheap compared to what you pay in ol` England.

On Monday we went to the local mini golf course where we spent two hours  `playing` golf. Losing miserably, the only thing to do was to see if it was possible to chip a golf ball using a putting club. The answer is `yes` but just don`t expect it to stay on the course. I lost several shots due to the ball going into the undergrowth rather than in the hole but it did provide comedy value. After a very enjoyable two hours it was time for a bite to eat before we made our way home to get ready for one last meal in Auckland as a family.

That evening we ate at the Skytower. The view from the top is amazing, I may have mentioned this before, and after taking the obligatory pictures and dining on the exquisite food, we headed downstairs to the casino where we played the 2 cents machines. I know, last of the big spenders and all. Mum and Dad did what the rest of us failed to do and actually won some money, Dad`s final winnings being the princely sum of $40.

Mum and Dad`s final day began with them packing their stuff for the long journey home. Thankfully, Nick provided an extra bag for them to carry my gear home, all 18 kilograms. That was just the stuff that I had picked up here in Australia and New Zealand and consisted mainly of tee shirts. Packing was followed by bacon and egg sandwiches before we headed out for coffee at Snowplanet, courtesy of Dad`s winnings.

Sadly, it was soon time to bid ´farewell´ to the folks as they made their way back home via LA. That night I went to another quiz, this time with Anna and her friends. We came a respectable fourth and would have done significantly better if only I had some idea about English geography.

The following day I mooched around Auckland and I did the same the next day, only this time I was with Gareth and after strolling along Queens St, we headed to the cinema to see `Zodiac`. A pretty intense film that has you sitting on the edge of your seat. The film was followed by pizza before we parted company after an enjoyable afternoon. My final full day in Auckland was hectic. After doing washing and ironing and going out to buy supplies for the flight to South America, I finally managed to start packing and soon wished I had sent even more home with the folks. A quick visit to the Bridgeway to say bye to Jean was followed by an evening out on the town with Nick and Tracey.

The first bar we visited was still in its `Happy Hour` and after demonstrating how to down a bottle of Sol in four seconds several times we all stumbled along to a nice restaurant where the food did the job and soaked up some of the alcohol in our systems. From the restaurant we made our way to a second bar but not before visiting a cheap and tacky gift shop along the main drag. The shop was awful in every sense and after browsing with a view of buying for a while - getting the shopkeeperSadly, it was soon time to bid ´farewell´ to the folks as they made their way back home via LA. That night I went to another quiz, this time with Anna and her friends. We came a respectable fourth and would have done significantly better if only I had some idea about English geography

The following day I mooched around Auckland and I did the same the next day, only this time I was with Gareth and after strolling along Queens St, we headed to the cinema to see ´Zodiac´. A pretty intense film that has you sitting on the edge of your seat. The film was followed by pizza before we parted company after an enjoyable afternoon.

My final full day in Auckland was hectic. After doing washing and ironing and going out to buy supplies for the flight to South America, I finally managed to start packing and soon wished I had sent even more home with the folks. A quick visit to the Bridgeway to say bye to Jean was followed by an evening out on the town with Nick and Tracey.

The first bar we visited was still in its ´Happy Hour´ and after demonstrating how to down a bottle of Sol in four seconds several times we all stumbled along to a nice restaurant where the food did the job and soaked up some of the alcohol in our systems. From the restaurant we made our way to a second bar but not before visiting a cheap and tacky gift shop along the main drag. The shop was awful in every sense and after browsing with a view of buying for a while - getting the shopkeeper´s hopes up of a big sale in the process, we stumbled across the crème de la crème of tacky gifts; a tee shirt with some Maori guy on the front and a woman who looked like Pocahontas and to top it all, it also glowed in the dark. The temptation to try it on was just too much and trying not to laugh and cry at the same time, I tried it on whilst Nick took pictures. Feeling very tempted to splash the cash we decided against doing so but this was only after the shopkeeper had promised us ´very good deal, I give you discount´. We fell out of the shop in a barrel of laughs and headed on to the final bar of the night before making our way home on the ferry. Apologies to all those in Northcote Point who heard us on our journey home.

Feeling slightly hung-over the next morning, I went for early coffee with Anna at a local cafe and after saying our goodbyes, I headed home to finish packing. Making sure I did actually leave the country, Nick and Tracey accompanied me to the airport and watched me go through customs before giving out a visible sigh of relief.

And so that´s it, my time in New Zealand has come to an end. The past three months have flown by and I have loved every part of it. New Zealand is without doubt one of the best places I have ever visited and the memories I have amassed from my time here will live with me for a very long time. I unfortunately failed to�follow the advice of�Gerry the Berry and find, in his words, `A good kiwi girl` to get married to so it looks like I will have to try harder in Argentina.

To summarise, these are the highlights from the Land of the Long White Cloud (in no particular order):

1) Skydiving in Wanaka. What else is there to say other than exhilarating, fantastic and an adrenalin rush like I have never felt before. I loved every second of it, even if my stomach was trying to tell me otherwise.

2) The adventure sports. If you`re going to live the dream when it comes to adventure then there is no where that beats New Zealand. Skiing, surfing, zorbing, blackwater rafting, trekking, sea kayaking, glacier trekking, skydiving, the luge in Queenstown, mountain biking, rafting down grade 5 rapids and of course, sand boarding. Simply breathtaking.

3) The time that I spent in Wanaka and in Queenstown. These two small towns are an adventure lover`s dream. They are beautiful and full of atmosphere and I would love to have spent a considerable amount of time in both. Where else can you eat the biggest and best burgers and then wash them down with cocktails out of teapots before dancing the night away? What really set them off was the people I was with, they helped make a great time that little bit better.

4) Spending time with family in Auckland. It was great to catch up with the folks and of course Nick and Tracey. I really appreciate them putting me up for the past few days/weeks/months? Even if we don`t get along all of the time, it is pretty cool having Nick as a brother, and as a Field Crime Intelligence Analyst. The importance of this was every time I jumped in a taxi home, I made sure they dropped me outside the local police station citing the fact that my brother worked there when they began asking questions. It basically guaranteed me a safe journey home. Bonus. I don`t think Auckland knew what had hit it when the Gilmour boys were out on the town and the icing on the cake was a great final night out in Auckland. Thanks guys.

5) The people I have had the pleasure of meeting and spending time with. The trip around the South Island was always going to be special but doing it with Tommie and Katja and Rob and Anna really took it to another level. I don`t think I have laughed as much as I did with them or have had such good fun in a long time. Of course there are others: my travelling companion Natalie, the Swedish boys Lukas and Linus and finally, Gareth from the trip to the Bay of Islands. I thank you all for the great memories. Finally, there is the karaoke queen Jean and of course Anna who invited me out regularly and who became a really good friend. She made the best hot chocolate and allowed me to watch film after film for free, if that`s not true friendship then I don`t know what is. Thanks bo.

So with no mobile phone, watch or indeed iPod, but with a pristine Spanish phrasebook, it is indeed time to say `Adios` to New Zealand and `Hola` to South America. As you may have already gathered, Australasia has been unbelievable and has been everything I imagined it to be and more, but this is when the real travelling starts and the adventure of the BIG T kicks in. For the next 68 days I anticipate there being very few luxuries, just me, a camera or two, plenty of steak and a couple of crucial Spanish words. I best start praying to God now.