I forgot to tell you all about the police. They are, interestingly enough, openly corrupt! None of this brown envelope business. No denying stuff to the media. No messing. Straight up stopping traffic and putting the palm out. In fairness, they only stop the expensive cars and charge a thousand roubles to move on so it's a fair sort of system. They even have little shelters on the street corners so that if it's raining, they can harass passersby in comfort! Excellent. Our guide Marina didn't really see why we were so amused by this.
"Why are they stopping those people Marina?"
"You know, how you say, for ze money,"
"Money for what?"
-bemused stare from Marina
"Money for bribe!"