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We reach Borneo. I say apparently in the last entry because Charlie and I were totally unaware that sabah was in Borneo. Borneo is actually split into 3 different countries, Malaysia, Brunei and Indonesia. Sabah being the Eastern Malay part of the island. So you can see where the confusion comes from. Once ruled by the omnipresent British, now an island that has some of the most bio- diverse jungles and rain-forests in the world.
We arrive in Kota Kinabalu, the States capital, and waste no time in heading to the fish market for some late night supper of grilled grouper, noodles and milo.
The following day we catch a bus to Sepilok, where the world famous orang-utan rehabilitation centre is. We're not talking smacked out apes that have become addicted to class A's and need care. This is a centre where the extremely endangered species are being looked after in order to conserve and maintain their presence in the forests here. We check into the jungle resort after a 5 hour sweaty bus journey and a hitchhike from a ranger.
After breakfast we make our way to rehabilitation centre. As we begin to walk in to the sun bear conservation area of the grounds, we spot a rare treat, an orang-utan is walking freely around. Inquisitive, incredibly human like (96% human actually) and placid. He sits by the fish pond and even dips his hand in, scoops some water and drinks.
The sun bear conservation is another project in place to help conserve and maintain these small, (the smallest of the bear family) arboreal animals. We catch a glimpse of them sleeping and roaming the vegetation, with a close encounter with some cheeky monkeys marking their territory.
At 3 we cross to the orang-utan area of the conservation. It's feeding time and we get to spot these docile creatures in their natural habitat.
At dinner later that night we get to see a 6ft python in the grounds of the lodges, before they move it on after having eaten one of the roosters earlier that day.
In the morning we journey south, deeper into Borneo's jungle. 30 years ago we would have been passing untouched virgin rainforest, now we pass through palm oil plantations. An industry that is taking over the Malaysian landscape. The tarmac is melting under the scorching heat of the suns rays as we arrive at Kinabatangan, dumped in the middle of nowhere by the bus again and go on search of a place to sleep. We find a basic Eco friendly camp. But to get there we have to take a boat ride. We take a guide to help spot and name various animals our un-trained eyes otherwise wouldn't have seen. We spot pied hornbills, long tail macaques, white breasted sea eagle, the proboscis monkey,(the ones who look like they have a willy on their nose-refer to pictures) white egret and a menagerie of other birds. We arrive at the camp with the bare necessities, mattress on the floor, mosquito net and no light.
After dinner we are lead into the jungle on a night walk. Armed with torches, trainers and insect repellent, we go in search for the nocturnal creatures of the forest. We see porcupines shuffle among the leaves, civets battle for territory, get caught in webs of spiders and feel the sting of the ubiquitous mosquito. We return perspiring profusely as the humidity of the rainforest takes it toll on all those who aren't accustomed.
As we sleep ( or not as it were in mums case) we listen to the sounds of the jungle which never sleeps.
The morning brings a new day and new opportunities to spot some wildlife. We journey up the river as the sun breaks over the trees. We sight a crocodile basking in the sun, then watch as it surreptitiously makes it way through the water.
We enjoy the cool breeze along the river, a release from the stifling humid air, joined by a stork billed kingfisher, the oriental darter and a purple heron.
Following breakfast we head off for another trek in the jungle. Learning some vital skills that may be required if we were ever to get lost or be attacked by an animal, hopefully we will never get ourselves in such a calamity.
After much deliberation and our nonchalance proving a little challenging to mother, we hitch a ride to the nearest town and jump on a bus to Kinabalu national park. Mum soon realises that Charlie and I are rarely pragmatic when it comes to travelling and we pass our destination having to retrace our steps and hour from where we came from. However the hitchhike by a local ranger, Justin was more than worth the mishap. We arrive at poring hot springs.
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