Leymebamba, Peru
Leymebamba lurches into life shortly before 6 am. The bass note is laid down by the minivan outside our hotel revving its engine while its passengers are woken, goaded and loaded. Layered above this is the local cockerel morning chorus. The first to start is a croaky, panicked and rather chopped cry - think John Inman in a half-nelson. Next to join is a distinctly Gallic voice, fruity with lovely rolled r's. This shuts John Inman up but encourages further contest...