Back to Lambayeque to visit the Royal Sipan Museum, where the artefacts from Huaca Rejara are displayed. This doubling back is because this museum doesn't like Mondays.
Luis is our guide for this whistle stop, breakneck, madcap dash round possibly the most interesting and well endowed of public museums we've yet visited. It is also the first where all cameras, smartphones and bags must be checked at left luggage before entering.
Unusually, photo id must also be left, presumably after a spate of pickpocketings and un-verified baggage claims. I can't see this catching on at Lewes Leisure Centre, but it's worth considering!
The exhibits are simply astounding, both in terms of volume and quality - the Lord of Sipan daily wore 8 kilograms of gold and silver jewellery that rattled when he walked - how Jimmy Saville would have envied him! Other artefacts of note are pectorals - oversized necklaces that cover the chest shoulders and upper back made of shell beads hung on cotton thread with sun and octopus designs - quite beautiful!
After the museum, it's on to Chachapoyas in the mountains re-passing Los Faiques (last nights resting place) and along the highway, a sweeping,modern road that rises and falls though the Andes as it snakes towards the Amazonas region of north eastern Peru*
I am now fully back in the grip of my mild obsession with Peruvian political graffiti. Many dilapidated roadside buildings and some out-houses have whole walls painted with a preferred candidate's name, party name and/or logo and a date. Imagine painting 'Clegg, Liberal 2016' in 6 foot high letters in yellow, blue and pink down the side of your garage and still walking tall in mid May 2015!
It's the full-on commitment I admire as there's no hiding come results day from how you voted - no half-arsed 'Save Hove Library (again)' in 24 point arial narrow here, thank you very much!
Also, any errors are there for all to see - vote Jhonny Kumar for President anyone?
After an almost interminable journey we arrive at Cocochapas and a hotel run by a pint sized female Basil Fawlty - it takes her over 5 minutes and numerous trips to find keys to our rooms, but all this is as nothing when I discover Cuy is on the menu!
I delicately dip my toe into the world of Giunea Pig cuisine by asking for a quarter Cuy. The waitress stifles a giggle and hurries off to check the availability of my quarry ... She returns to inform me that only half Cuy's are available and is frankly delighted when I confirm my desire to feast on Cuy!
I run the family through the old 'if you pick a Guinea pig up by its tail, it's eyes'll fall out' gag and sit back, luxuriating in the pleasure of a quarry felled, and a culinary goal ticked off.
When it arrives it's clear I have the back half, hind quarters and claws fully evident through the crisp batter ... And after a quick snicker-snack of my cutlery, it's all over and it honestly tastes like chicken.
Delicious! As Arnie once put it so succinctly 'I'll be back ...!'
*note the author has taken a few liberties with facts here - corrections will be made in the second edition.