Most tourists travel to Cat Ba Island by a combination of bus and boat from Hanoi, but given there is a train to Haiphong and then a hydrofoil connection to the island we decided this was a good way to experience the island and the type of scenery that Halong Bay is famous for.

It was another early start as we left the hotel at 05.30 along with a breakfast 'pack up' in order to catch the 06.00 train. This trip was done in hard class, although we had padded seats, for the two and a quarter hour journey to the coast. Despite there being just four passengers in the coach (and six staff) we were greeted by loud thumping dance tracks being played over the speaker system. Why? Because this is Vietnam!

Getting a taxi at Haiphong was initially an issue as we skirted past the waiting throng of MaiLinh divers (as they seem to have high rates) and headed to another car. Despite having the advertised rates on his door our first driver was keen to negotiate a set rate for the short trip to the hydrofoil terminal starting and remaining at 80,000 Dong (£2.75) for what should have been less than a 25,000 Dong (under £1.00) trip. We hopped out and he lost that fare. Driver number two seemed keen that his taxi meter remained covered with his hat . . . . . . Heather, being firm but fair, soon had the meter uncovered and we paid just 22,000 Dong for the trip.

The hydrofoil across to Cat Ba Island took just 45 minutes and almost immediately upon disembarking the town felt comfortable. We are not sure what is was, but during our 48 hours on the island it just seemed different to the mainland. Maybe it was the people, the nice promenade, the coastal path or just the lack of traffic?

Having checked into our hotel, The Cat Ba Palace (not named because it was a palace that is for sure), it was time for a coffee and a snack after what had been an early start before we headed off on a walk along the coastal path linking the town with the beaches. The forty five minute walk got us to the Cat Ba Beach Resort where to be honest we sat, enjoyed a few drinks, a portion of deep fried spring rolls, and watched the tide go out before taking a slow walk back before sunset.

Day two on Cat Ba Island saw us hike to the top of Cannon Fort which took about forty minutes but gave expansive views over the island and coast. It was well worth the climb. With another relaxing afternoon watching the sea, sipping a beer and a cocktail, the realisation that in less than a week we will be home and our eight week trip is now drawing to a close set in. Heather will be pleased to leave Vietnam and after another couple of hours of Rail TV on the way back to Hanoi a dose of peace and quiet will probably be welcomed by me too - for a short time at least.

So we have just Hanoi to explore and hopefully we can find somewhere memorable to spend at least part of Christmas Day. Suggestions on a postcard please.