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If you have been to a safari park at home then you will have an inkling what Etosha National Park is like, although you need to add a unhealthy dose of steroids!
Etosha is over 22,000 square kilometers in size which is about half the size of Switzerland. The distance between the two entrance gates (Von Lindquist and Anderson) that we used was over 200 km with the Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) at Namutoni, Halali and Okaukuejo spaced at pretty much 75 km intervals.
Speed limits within the Etosha are 60 kph and all of the roads are gravel so going much faster is unwise (many of the roads are only passable at a far lower sped unless you have a chiropractor on speed dial), plus, you are here to see the wildlife and as you are constantly scanning the bush for sightings speed is not always that important
Our first wildlife encounter was with four Burchell Zebra that were wandering along the road and the quickly followed by a Giraffe that was munching some leaves just a little further along the road before we arrived at Namutomi.
After paying our park fees and grabbing some refreshment at Namutomi we started our 75 km drive to Halali. At the Klein Namutoni waterhole we watched firstly what was six, then seven Giraffe making their way across the park as we left this area we can across another group of Giraffe taking the number up to about sixteen just in this area.
There were more Zebra, Springbok, Oryx, Giraffe and Impala than you could shake a stick at as we made our way through this part of the park. All of this is viewed as you self drive your way along the roads and loops off the main roads to different waterhole areas.
The sighting of a male Lion, albeit in the distance, on day one before we made it to Halali by sunset was impressive although the photograph will not do it justice. Maybe on day two we will have a closer encounter?
Having checked into the NWR Halali Rest Camp we dumped our bags in our Bush Chalet to make or way to the floodlit waterhole. We didn't see a thing before dinner although the sound of 'critters' and the vast open space with distant lightning storms was worthwhile making the walk for. Fortunately after dinner the waterhole delivered us a Rhino (still struggling to know whether it was a Black or White Rhino), now this is one big animal and well worth the patient wait we had had.
After breakfast on day 2 in Etosha we headed off to Okaukuejo via a circuitous route that saw us travel around 200 km in order to travel the 75 km between the two camps.
Wildlife sightings were not as numerous, but we added a few birds to our list and a Springbok although the wildlife highlight of the day was during a chance stop at a waterhole, not far from Okaukuejo, when another Rhino trotted along, had a drink followed by a wallow in the mud - it was fantastic being so close!
The day also saw us visit the Etosha Lookout, which was a couple of kilometres out on the salt pan. Even though there were a couple of other cars out there it did seem remote - it was also the only place in Etosha where we could get out of the car as we felt that we could spot a lion or leopard before it got to us!
Okaukuejo Rest Camp had a far better feel about it than Halali. It seemed more modern, clean and generally better maintained. Our Waterhole Bungalow was just a few step from the floodlit viewing area too.
Overall Etosha National Park delivered even though this was not prime time for wildlife viewing - the ability to self-drive was brilliant which meant you went at your own pace which really appeals to us.
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