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Looking back at our records it was nearly ten years (almost to the day) ago that we boarded a Cruceros Australis ship to journey through Tierra del Fuego/Beagle Channel and land on Cape Horn.
Last time we did this trip in November 2008 we sailed from Ushuaia in Argentina to Punta Arenas in Chile, but our 2018 journey would be the opposite direction on board their brand new ship, Ventus Australis.
This would not be a 'normal cruise’, with a maximum of 230 passengers and 65 crew the Australis ships are not big vessels - any off ship excursions would involve travelling on semi-rigid Zodiac boats with full waterproof clothing and life jackets . . . . there would be no poncy tender boats here and if you fell off the side of the Zodiac boat then you really were in deep water!
That said the all-inclusive trip was not all roughing it, with great food served at meal times - showcasing a range of Chilean and Argentinian wines - and the bar was open until midnight serving very generous measures. It would be cruising, but slightly more adventurously, without being surrounded by thousands of other people or the need to pack a dinner jacket. Jeans, fleeces and walking boots/shoes were perfectly acceptable for every occasion on board.
Sailing overnight from Punta Arenas we arrived at Ainsworth Bay and even though the weather was not that good but we were soon boarding the Zodiac boats in the rain ready for the first on shore excursion. I went for the more challenging hill climb, the others chose the more gentle option. Whichever option was chosen did mean getting soaking wet, but also having the reward of hot chocolate and whisky being served before heading back to the ship . . . . . fortunately this was the only very wet excursion of the cruise.
Later in the afternoon, just after clothing had almost dried we were back out on the Zodiac boats - although not stepping foot on land - at Tucker's Islet to see the Magellanic Penguins that call this place home.
The following day we were again on Zodiac boats but this time heading for the stunning Pia Glacier and a short hike to get views from various vantage points. During the afternoon we sailed through Glacier Alley, passing some more impressive sights accompanied by food, drink and music in honour of the named glaciers. For example when we passed Germany we got beer and sausages, for France there was wine and cheese and Italy there was pizza and prosecco served up in the bar area and also on the open observation deck.
The names of the glaciers came from the early european explorers of this area and their country of origin, there was the Germany, Italy, Holland, France and Romanche glaciers visible from the ship. This was a nice touch by the Cruceros Australis team on board the ship.
The highlight of the trip, after the third night on board, was arriving at Cabo des Hornos (or Cape Horn) where we were blessed with near perfect weather enabling us to land in the island for a second time. Heather and I had a previous visit ten years and one day before this visit to what could be known as the ‘end of the world’ . . . . maybe this should become a trip to do once every decade?
It really was the highlight for us all and after around and hour or so on the island we were back on board Ventus Australis for breakfast. It was well worth the early start to visit Cape Horn!
The final trip off of the ship was at Whulia Bay, a place visited by Charles Darwin when on board the Beagle, that afforded us fabulous views of the Ventus Australis at anchor from a vantage point around 190m above sea level. Each of the trips off of the ship were accompanied by knowledgeable guides that explained not only the history, but also a lot of information about the flora and fauna that was observed.
After the final dinner on board the ship we headed towards Ushuaia in Argentina where the ship docked at just after midnight - but there was no need to be off of Ventus Australis until after breakfast.
Even though this was our second trip a third isn't ruled out completely, and I think Simon, Linda, Chris and Gail may even be considering a second themselves!
If you do get the opportunity to do this trip you really must do it - obviously the weather can't be guaranteed - but landing on Cape Horn is something very special indeed.
*Note that photographs may also be viewed in the 'photos' section of this travel blog (below) or from 'more photos' link (above) within the blog depending on which version you are viewing*
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