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Gambling aside, I'm convinced that Dublin is Ireland's Vegas. Just look at the similarities: Ultimate weekend binge drinking destination? Check. Bachelorette parties everywhere you look? Yup. Megaclubs playing untz untz music? Of course. Tight, short skirts and high heels even if you really shouldn't? Unfortunately.
It was such a stark contrast to the beautiful Ireland that I was falling in love with and I'm not sure I liked it. After scoping out the temple bar area and grafton street as well as the surrounding areas, it didn't seem like there was much else to do. We asked several locals if there was anything that was a must see in Dublin and everyone had the same answer, "not really." But we weren't willing to accept that, there had to be more to Dublin and we set out to find it, with plenty of wine and beer breaks to keep us going.
My absolute favorite thing was seeing the Book of Kells at Trinity college.
The college itself is pretty small so the tour of that wasn't impressive but it did take me back to my days as a tour guide at Harvard (ps. my tours were pretty damn good). The Book of Kells is incredible and I could stare at it for hours. The intricate, detailed and beautiful art work and the fact that it dates back to 800ad is mind boggling. If you're in Ireland, go see it, it's worth it. Christ church cathedra is old and beautiful. The crypt in particular is really interesting and a little surreal, although it weirded me out that there was a cafe down there and a bookstore called Foxy Friars.
Our last night we met up with a friend of Sonia's from Oxford and her boyfriend and got some local flavor and insight. After multiple failed atttempts to get some of that nice irish beef I'd been reading about and seeing (that isn't a euphemism) in the form of a medium rare steak (apparently they need to cook it until it looses all flavor) I finally found some irish food I loved. Potted crab and smoked haddock poached in milk at the Winding Stair was one of my favorite meals of the whole trip and the restaurant is quaint. We also hit up a speakeasy which felt very San Francisco. Both Orla and Kierran were wonderful hosts and it was interesting to hear their take on Ireland as young professionals. We met some other late 20's/early 30's in one of Dublin's smallest pubs (it really was) and there seemed to be a consistent sentiment of disillusionment about the past but also optimism for the future. As one of them put it, it's not just the government and banks that have failed the people but the church too. You can see the anger at this failing in the graffiti around town and the way people talk about these institutions. It feels like the foundations of the country have been shaken but out of that will hopefully emerge a more stable and stronger Ireland.
All in all, I'd definitely go back to Ireland and the next time spend some time driving around the countryside exploring this truly beautiful country and it's pubs!
- comments
Leah Love it! Winding Stair sounds amazing--putting that on my list. Keep the adventure stories coming. If these blog posts are any indication, I'm convinced you were a damn good tour guide.
Wen Hermon!! I finally caught up on all your blogs! How did I not know you were such an amazing writer!!!?? Since I'll probably never get to travel the world like this, I will live vicariously through you! P.S. You should include a stop in Hong Kong. My parents would take great care of you. :)
Hima Happy Birthday Hermon!! Hope you are doing something fun and craZy to celebrate :) Your blog reads like a great book. I keep waiting for the next chapter!! So happy you are really enjoying your adventure! Miss you.
Danica What!?! It's been 11 days - ELEVEN...I am dying for Greece...wink wink