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Back to the early starts as there was over 400km to cover to Cape Reinga and back. Luckily the bus picked us up just down the street from our B+B (Two Trees) at 07:15. Unluckily we were one of the first pickups so it had gone 08:00 before we cleared town.
Our guide and driver for the day was Barry. He was probably the best guide we have had, full of fun and information. This started from the off when he introduced himself and insisted we call him Barry and not Driver as if his mother had wanted him called Driver she would have Christened him Driver! He would however answer to his alternative name of Sir.
First stop was to see a group of Kauri trees at the Puketi Kauri Forest. Unfortunately Kauri trees have been vastly depleted due to a century of over harvesting and the fact that the trees take 800 years to mature and can live for over 2,000 years!! The trees also shed their lower branches making them knot free and exceptionally useful for ship building. Consequently they are now protected and it is illegal to cut down a tree.
The setup used a 20 minute boardwalk, to prevent damage to the surrounding vegetation, during which we were encouraged to hug the largest of the specimens, a 500 to 1000 year old tree!
On the way to the next stop we passed a fish and chip shop that Barry described as not the best in New Zealand, not the best in the Southern Hemisphere, not the best in the world but the best in the Galaxy! Such a pity we could not put this boast to the test.
The next stop was the Ancient Kauri Kingdom where Kauri trees that have been perfectly preserved in old swamps are used to make furniture and other objects. The products are amazing given their history but the prices are equally exotic and while the Lovers Seat was comfortable I was never going to fork out the $20,000 no matter how much Nicola pleaded.
The next stop was an early lunch. The timing is always determined by the tides on the 90 Mile Beach so it is either early, as the case today, or late. By now the wind had increased and we sat eating our packed meal watching a blustery seascape.
The Cape beaconed and as we travelled up the increasingly narrow peninsular Barry explained the significance of the site to Maori culture. Essentially their ancestors arrived in New Zealand near this spot and they believe that when you die your spirit takes 6 days visiting sites that have been significant during your life. On the 7th day your spirit makes it's way to Cape Reinga and then jumps from the single tree growing on the furthermost point into the sea and returns to their ancestral homeland. For those who remain, by visiting the Cape on the 7th day, there is a chance to say goodbye to the spirit of the deceased.
Barry was very sincere throughout and we could tell it meant a great deal to him personally. Barry finished his commentary with the traditional greeting visitors made when arriving at the Cape. Nicola and I, along with the rest of the tourists felt moved.
Stopping he bus we trooped down to the lighthouse sited above the sacred tree nearly getting blown off the footpath with the strong winds.
The site of the Cape means it is also the meeting point of the Tasman Sea with the Pacific Ocean. There is no mistaking where this happens as there is a band of white water where the two bodies collide.
All in all the whole site is quite awe-inspiring and definitely worth the effort to visit.
Humbled and with all cobwebs well and truly dispersed we boarded the bus for the journey down 90 Mile Beach. To reach it the bus had to navigate a wide stream using the route as an extended ford, water splashing everywhere. We suddenly stopped by a particularly large sand dune and were directed by Barry to disembark and pick up a body board from the luggage compartment. He then proceeded to instruct us on the art of sand boarding.
With Barry in the lead we huffed and puffed our way to the top and had a great time making a number of high speed descents. Some unlucky surfers managed to end up in the stream and also get a good soaking in the process.
Onto the beach and the drive was another chance to put your foot down and speed in the salt water. We did make a stop halfway down to go Pipi fishing, another first. These shellfish, similar to mussels can be found in the shallow surf by digging your feet into the soft sand a couple of cms. In no time at all we had a good bagful that Barry was going to drop off at an old people's home in Paihia.
Another coffee stop at the Ancient Kauri Kingdom to allow the busses a chance to wash off the salt water. As the tour company runs a number of busses to the Cape each day, Barry made it possible for Nicola and I to change busses for the backpacker one (their driver concentrated on the activities rather than our oldies bus that focused on culture). This bus was going to stop at the best fish and chip shop in the GALAXY, we were in luck.
Another top tip, if you are passing through Mangonui stop and have the best fish and chips in the Galaxy.
The return trip was largely uneventful but did give us a chance to experience another drivers manner. Barry won hands down.
A great day!
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