Day 1

We wake up early to catch a 8, 8:15, 8:30 (depending on who you talk to) bus to Cochamo. Cochamo is a small town located along a fjord; it is approximately 2 hours away from Puerto Varas.

Our bus arrives close to 8:30 and it is full. We stand for a short period of time with a young, man from Texas who is working at an adventure ranch in Cochamo Valley. He gives us pointers and helps us find our destination stop, which is before a small bridge with a gravel road that leads to the trail head. He also tells us that we should try eating the clear sacs found under the butt of the annoying orange-red bummed fly; it is sweet and full of nectar. Sounds gross.

Our bus zooms along on narrow gravel roads with barely enough room for oncoming traffic, and even less room on the creaky, wooden bridges. I look out the window and see the fjord full of oyster and fish farms; they look like bee farms, but in water. These single stacked boxes are strategically placed in rows that line the shores.

We get off the bus and are greeted by... you may have guessed... the orange-red fly and horseflies! We didn't even have time to stick out our thumbs in the beating hot sun when a van pulls up and asks if we want a ride to the trail head.

He takes us down the gravel road to the trail head. Darren and I look at each other, are we ready for this?? Five days is a long time in the backcountry.

On the trail, wee pass through countless crevices that have been created by horse trails throughout the many years. This is a fragile ecosystem with the A-horizon being very sandy and no means of erosion control are implemented on the trails. Occasionally, tree roots provide some means of protection to the soil profile. The crevices sometimes were deeper than me when I walked through and usually there were options to which one to take with each crevice meeting back up with the main trail.

We leap-frogged another couple heading back to climb for 7 days. La Junta is almost a full day hike and is the popular base camp for many climbers. It is absolutely beautiful and the profile picture for this blog is one of the mountains that surrounds the campsite. There were many tents sent up and a hand drawn map at the information booth of climbing routes. One day, if I get better at climbing I would come back here. You can even hire horses to pack in your gear, there is a restaurant and showers. I see handwritten posts looking for climbing partners; one girl is here for a month traveling from Australia.

Darren and I decide to hike a bit further. We find a private spot by a river that is perfect. We set up our tent, make a small fire and enjoy our first meal (steak and mashed potatoes).

And yes, we did try the nectar of the bug. It was tasty! I guess it's comparable to honey, so it doesn't gross me out too much anymore.

We hiked 13 km.

Day 2

Rise and shine in the mountains! What a great way to start the day! We make breakfast and pack up.

Today we see mostly trees and mainly creek crossings. The crevices are getting muddy and it is hard to avoid emerging your foot in the mud. We didn't see anybody for hours and hours. We started to think that we were on the wrong trail. We stopped many times and tried figuring out where we were on the map; each time we decided to go further and if we don't reach the Refugio then we will camp and hike out the same way we came the next day.

About an hour from the Refugio we see people walking from the other direction! They tell us where we are and we are on the right trail! Thank goodness! They say it's beautiful up ahead and speak of an arc. This brings my motivation back.

We hike to find a waterfall with a carved out rock with vegetation growing on it; this rock makes an arc-way in front of the waterfall. Beautiful! Darren and I take this opportunity to cool down and take a break. We jump into the cold water and enjoy the peacefulness of being in the middle of nowhere with only the two of us present. However, not far behind were some other hikers; one of them being our hiking friend for the next day.

The Refugio was at the top of the waterfall, but Darren and I decide to hike further. It wasn't easy though, it was nearly all uphill. By the end we were so tuckered out that we just dragged our feet up the mountain to the first small lake. Our hiker friend from Germany camps near us. He has been traveling for 8 months and started with Canada; he was even in Edmonton. He wants to move to Canada and work in Squamish or on Vancouver Island.

When talking to him the bugs seemed to calm down and it was weird. Horseflies buzz around your head nearly all day long. We joked about how the bugs were just waiting for the perfect moment to attack. Ironically, this was the same time that a spider climbed up my sock and took a chunk out of my leg. I didn't notice, but I saw my leg bleeding shortly after. I know this will be a nuisance during our trip.

Well, time for bed in our tent that is set up beside a small mountain lake with plenty of fish jumping in it.

We hiked 14 km.

Day 3

Today seemed similar to yesterday, but with more uphill. When we reached the big lake we saw farm yards and a forest of driftwood. We approach a farm yard in hopes that they would sell us fresh bread and because we didn't know where the path went. We didn't luck out with the bread and we almost didn't approach because dogs bark at you as you approach.

We take a short break and chat about the geckos that we keep seeing on the trail. Most of the time you only hear them running away, but occasionally we get a glimpse of them. They aren't very big, only about 4 inches long. They seem to enjoy sunbathing and living by water, then they run into tree stumps when we walk by.

Heading south along the big lake, it is all steep up and down with a few angry dogs running at our feet. Darren is having problems with chaffing and I am getting tired of trying to figure out how to cross the next creek. However, I am starting to feel like a dancer because I have some pretty sweet footwork. Left foot - rock, right foot rock, left foot - stick, right and left foot - small rock then jump to land but make sure your force is going forward because you have 30 lbs on your back. My hips have a rub burn from doing this over and over. My pack is strapped on so tight that it is almost as tight as it can go, and it's a small pack - I'm not a small person.

We get to the end of the big lake and decide to call it an early day. We decide that we'll use tape and pantyliners tomorrow to help with Darren's chaffing. Unfortunately, my little first aid kit does not have tensor bandages.

We pick a campsite in a cow pasture by the lake. There is a farm yard at the top of the hill and the owners pull up in a boat after we setup camp. They say something to us, but we don't understand. They were probably offering us a big, fresh meaty meal with a hot shower, but we didn't actually know.

During the night, both Darren and I woke up to the sound of frogs and possibly geckos overtaking the valley. It was so loud and pretty cool! But I needed sleep, so I listened briefly and then ear plugged it.

We hiked 14 km.

Day 4

Well, I'm certainly not a dancer today. I trip over a root as Darren talks about the rare cow-tree species (a cow in the trees) that was spying us. Then I fall backwards on one of the many loose rock descents. Certainly not a dancer.

Darren and I laugh as we see two horses running towards us on the trail. The funny part was that a cow was running with them. When they saw us, the horses separated from the cow; as if they weren't supposed to hang out together and were busted. All farm animals are friends here, regardless of species. Dogs hang out with sheep, chickens with cats and ..well.. cows with horses.

Everyone on the trail loves this hike; I'm not sure why Darren and I are not as stoked. Maybe it's because people love seeing farms. So do I, but I just think that my home is more beautiful. The hike doesn't seem that worth it anymore. The first two days were breathtaking, but now everything just looks the same and I still haven't got any fresh bread. And Darren and I both stink - worse than usual.

Darren thinks that we need to spend an extra day back here because we aren't making the best time. Even though the pantyliners help Darren's chaffing, we remain slow moving. I will do everything to make sure we get out on the fifth day! But I was mentally preparing myself for an extra day.

My spider bite has grown and itches, but I've had worse so I think I'll be okay. I do look pretty beat up though, my legs are covered with scraps and bites. I swear that I did it to myself, but I can't stop thinking about how I can't wait for this hike to be done. I don't want to be negative, but I am certainly done with this trail. It's constantly a steep up and then a steep down, who made this trail!!!! It could have been so much easier.

We make good time today and hike a lot further than expected!! This means that we might be out of here tomorrow!

Near the end of the day, we pass some apple trees and I grab one. Mmmm...fresh food! We hear a storm sneaking up on us, but haven't found the best place the camp. We come to a farm yard and with broken Spanish we find a campsite in the family's backyard. She gives us water and shows us the bathroom. I'm thrilled! I haven't actually seen a baño (bathroom) for days, besides the outdoors of course. She sells us fresh bread and I chow down half of it instantly. It is delicious! There is a deepfried type of bread and Darren tells me that I have to save some for him. Not fair!! So good.

We get ready for bed on a full carbohydrate stomach and I feel great!

We hiked 21 km.

Day 5

Well, I don't wake up in a good mood. I am just reminded of the two balls of muscle in my calves and my sore back from literally carrying my life on my shoulders. I want to be done today, but this doesn't motivate me to move faster. I think that each morning Darren and I pack up slower and slower. The owner sits and awkwardly waits for us to leave. I'm sure she would be slow too if she just did what we did.

Even on the trail, I drag my feet. I try to tell myself that the faster I move the faster we are done; it doesn't work. I can't stop thinking that the only good thing about today is that we are done! I know I shouldn't be so negative, but I'm tired and sore. There aren't a lot of choices for me to get out. Horseback or feet, and I can't horseback because then I am defeated. I'm too stubborn.

It wasn't until 4 guys passed us on some horses that I started to pick up my pace. I realized that I could hike just as fast as they could horseback ride. Now I have competition, plus it felt good to find some english speaking people on the trail. Not many people to begin with, let alone ones that we can communicate with.

I can see the end of the valley.....finally and I start getting excited! There isn't as much up and down - thank goodness!! But there isn't as much tree cover either, it is hot and we start to smell exceptionally bad.

We get to the end of the trail and there is a convenience store with elevated prices. Now we need to figure out how to get back to Puerto Varas. The lady says that her son can drive us, but not until tomorrow. This is not an option for me. I tell Darren that we should hike the next 2 km to a more popular road to hitch hike and catch the ferry for 4:30. It is 3:00 pm. Darren doesn't think we can make it; I think we should try and we can just camp anywhere if it doesn't work. We hike fast in the steaming hot sun and make it to the main road in record time. I get there just as a vehicle passes, I stick my thumb out but he doesn't stop. This is Darren's first hitchhiking experience, so I hope it will be a good one. Another vehicle passes, but there are already people sitting on laps inside. We don't have much time left before the last ferry leaves. A little car passes and stops!!! Yes! We will make it after all!

Inside the car was a young couple (Cristobal and Roseria) from Santiago and the girl speaks English. She said we were short on time to catch the ferry. We know, haha, but we wanted to try to make it. They were the second last car to make it to the ferry, we are lucky that they can take us to the other side of the lake. We pay for the ferry ride, which is a beautiful ride across a turquoise lake. The ferry ride is more beautiful than the last few days on the trail. The waves are big and it is cold because a storm is coming in. We stay outside because we don't want to stink up the little car. Roseria asks us where we are going and we tell her that we are trying to find our way back to Puerto Varas, but are unsure of how we are doing it. I know we'll figure it out though, it might take a day though.

The hour long ferry ride is done and Roseria offers to drive us to Puerto Varas; they are staying the night there too. This is fabulous!!! She asks how we would get back if they didn't offer, well, we don't know!! Probably bus or hitchhike or both. We get off the ferry and stop at a quaint restaurant for food. Thank goodness, I was starving, but I didn't want to ask them to stop and I didn't want to eat anymore trail food. They order for us, which is the most magnificent thing in the world because they introduced us to my new favorite dish - cuezula. This cuezula is a soup with green beans, peas, a chunk of pumpkin, chicken, corn and rice. We eat it with all utensils: fork, spoon and knife. Cuezula can be ordered with different types of meat, but chicken is likely my favorite. Darren and I also order a beer and cheers while looking into each others' eyes.

We hit the narrow, whindy roads and pass more sheep, bee-hive and goat farms. We learn about our favorite Chilean couple. Then when we pass Cochamo, we show them where we started our hike and they think we are crazy (locos). It was a long hike!

A few hours later, Cristobal and Roseria drop us off beside our hostel. I am so grateful to meet them, and Darren has a successful first hitchhiking experience.

We check into the hostel and enjoy a long shower and a real bed. The next few days are going to be spent traveling to Patagonia and healing.

We hiked 14 km.