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Cusco and the Inka trail part 2:
Awake at 6:45 for the first day hike we made our way by bus to the start of the trail. Our passports stamped with the Machu Picchu logo and date we set off for the first stage of our hike.
Day 1, 12km: Not a bad day and a good way to start the trail as it introduced us to smaller mountains and gave us our first taster of the excellent views we would be experiencing. We also came across our first Inka ruin which made you more excited for the trail ahead as it was very impressive. A fair walk on day 1 mixed equally by paths which were flat, and up and down. After stopping for a three course lunch we battled on and by 4pm we arrived at the camp (all set up and waiting for us) to relax and prepare for the difficult second day. Our 20 or so porters were introduced and they told us abit about themselves and what each one of them carries. We then settled for afternoon tea with popcorn and crackers and then later at around 7pm our three course supper. Early to bed for our 5am wake up call!
Day 2, 8km: The day has arrived that we haven't been looking forward to. Lonely planet describes this part of the trek as a very challenging walk in the mountains which leaves many a backpacker gasping! From setting off at 6:20am we began the very steep climb and the never ending staircase to the top of the mountain. Starting at 2700 metres upto 4200 metres taking us 4 hours (it was meant to take us 5). The climb up wasnt easy! Over 2 miles of stairs which were often knee high made this tough and acid builds up quickly in your legs making you tired. Also the altitude makes you breathless and you can become dizzy fairly easily. This climb was also when you saw how amazing the porters are. They each carry 20+ kilos and they practically run past you on the trail to reach the camp ahead of you. They are unbelievably fit and strong and upon arrival at the camp they clap and cheer you and then they serve you all night! It's extraordinary watching them and often you are greeted with little personal touches, like origami napkin birds and your name written in syrup on your breakfast pancake. They definitely make the trip more enjoyable for you. We was told that one porter ran the whole Inca trail (27miles) within 3hours and 45 minutes making a record, wow! Jonathan and I reached the summit of the mountain 'Dead Womans Pass' first giving us a whole hour to relax whilst waiting for the rest of the group. (I felt like a dead woman by the time I'd reached the top!) This was great although it was very cold up the mountain and our muscles began to seize. Finally we set off on the 600 metre 1.5 hour descent which I actually found more difficult than the climbing. The steps and ground were very large and uneven so half the time you had to jump down them and it required alot of concentration. Also as our muscles where tired your legs became more wobbly and weak. Reaching the camp at 1:30pm we could finally relax and eat and rest up for the free afternoon. This was when the rain began!
Day 3, 16km: What was to be our longest trekking day started again at 6:20am however the rain had begun and unfortunately hadn't stopped at any point throughout the night. Apparently 90% of everything seen on this day 3 would be original and created by Inkas, from the paths and tunnels to a few more ruins and agricultural terraces. We began a 300 metre climb to an Inka ruin half way up a mountain. Only a small ruin and if the mountain had been clear of cloud we would have had excellent views of the valley below. Resuming the climb up to the mountain peak had become tricky. The trails had turned into waterfalls and was gushing down the slopes. Luckily our trainers held out for a little while... That was until we started the descent of the mountain on the other side where the water was flowing in stronger torrents; Then our trainers filled with water as it became very difficult to avoid. One part of the path was impossible to follow because of the current so we had to jump across the water to climb the bank at the other side. However the steep bank was difficult to walk on and I slipped and skidded down the bank almost landing back in the waterfall. Finally we reached the two more Inka sights which we could explore and rest up before continuing to the dinner stop through a part of the trail called Cloud Forrest. This took you high on narrow Inka made rocky paths which had a drops of a few thousand metres a couple of feet away from where you were walking. Unfortunately due to the thick cloud you couldn't see much and what was meant to have been some of the best views of the trail where obstructed. However the walk through the more jungle parts of the Andes still made it special. After our three course dinner and our terrific home made cake made by the porters which they had piped 'Well Done Amigos' on it, we set off towards a 1000 metre descent called the 'Gringo killer' steps. Approximately 1500 steep, narrow and tall steps made this fairly difficult and as it had rained, they were very slippy. 3 hours later we finally reached the last amazing Inka sight to be greeted with beautiful views of the valley as the rain had finally stopped and the cloud had shifted over. Llamas grazed on the terraces and as we wandered around and patted them and took some photos we also gazed at our camp in the distance. We could also see the Gringo Killer path from which we had just walked and looking up at it from below really puts into perspective what you have just done as from the base it looks like you need to abseil down the mountain, let alone trek down it!
Finally we arrived at 5pm to camp to be greeted with afternoon tea and again supper. Early to bed for Machu Picchu!
Day 4, 6km: Up at 3am to begin our trek to the last checkpoint to Machu Picchu before any other groups could get there. After 6km of trekking in the dark we finally saw the sun rise above the mountains and as we reached the sacred Sun gate we had an aerial view over the valley and the breath taking Machu Picchu! Amazing views and definitely made the last four days worth it! A few photos later we started on the very last path to our final destination! After a few postcard photo shots we lined up for personal photos and then began our guided tour of the ruins before letting loose and exploring it ourselves! It was here we realised how clever the Inkas actually were and we surveyed their excellent stonework, agricultural systems and their religious and symbolic places of worship which also demonstrated why Machu Picchu was deemed such a special location for their temple and why it was so important and sacred to them. For e.g. A perfect diamond cross had been carved from stone; The top pointing to the mountain Machu Picchu, the bottom of the cross to the mountain Wayna Picchu and the east and west pointing directly to two glaciers in the distance. It was amazing to see these artifacts and have them portrayed with their Inka reasoning for creating them. Extremely clever people! Machu Picchu dates back to the 15th century and it is made from a White granite rock. We saw the quarry in which the stone was taken and then each rock was individually carved and strategically placed to enable the sunlight from both the sunrises and sunsets to filter into the city to it's best advantage, to help towards the Inka life of growing crops and worship. We viewed a few temples within the city, temple of the sun and temple of the Condor. We strolled around the two divisions of the city, the agricultural sector and the rural sector and we also surveyed the palace of the Inka ruler. Fabulous and fascinating history. We also learnt about how it was discovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham.
Of course being up so early meant we were shattered by dinner time and it was then that we left Machu Picchu and made our way down the mountain to the bar! The train ride home was spent unconscious and when we finally reached Cusco all that was in order was a shower and bed! An excellent adventure and I feel very proud of ourselves for achieving this difficult hike. I recommend anyone to do this and it truly has made our adventure to South America feel complete. Now a massage and a vodka is next on the list of things to do!
Hayls and Jonathan x
- comments
Lindsay Aldridge It sounds incredible, you describe it so well Haylz! I hope I can go one day and see it for myself. Hope you're both taking care of yourselves Xxx
mumL wow! I'm exausted just reading it you must both be super fit now. All your previous adventure must have prepared you for this'
Laura Hey guys! Your blog + photos are amazing! Love following you round the world! Stiz I saw your mummy yesterday! Missing you loads! Xx