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20 November
Thailand > Cambodia Siem Reap
KIM: Up early, we settled on a yoghurt for breakfast from the local shop and headed with our backpacks out to the Market that lies along the border to get some passport photos as we were told we needed two photos for our visa.. I only mention it because we don't in fact need two photos, we only need one - and of course I did actually have one already, but now have an additional 5 useless and rather mug-shot looking passport photos for any takers. Anyway... leaving Thailand was simple, stand in the queues and have your digital photo taken. As we'd heard that the Cambodian side of the border crossing is a bit of a nightmare, I was a bit apprehensive as we approached the gate. A well dressed man approached us (I've somehow seen this happen before) and we tried to brush him off (obey your instinct, trust no one!). He did however give us the right forms to fill in and advise us against paying anything more than the $20 for the visa no matter how much the officials insist (as also advised in every forum out there!). Could it be that this well dressed man actually did work for the government as he said he did and was helping us because its his job like he says it is? I was still skeptical and kept whispering to Mark in unfortunate Afrikaans 'moenie geld gee'... visa in hand, passport stamped - it all went swimmingly well. Free transport to the 'tourist transport depot' - just as the rough guide has described.. but weirdly enough, this 'government official' was with us in our bus and now, was advising us on taxi's. That's when Marik and Anya (from Poland) arrived on their bus (not from Poland, but from the border too) also accompanied by a well dressed man. So Mark went on a shop around to see what the deal really was and to find out prices of taxi's to Siem Reap, while Anya, Marik and I had an incredibly difficult conversation. Marik's English was good, Anya's was very bad, and my polish non existent, it was a relief when Mark returned with news that the price of the taxi was the same everywhere and our government officials weren't marking it up.
Some food (and gosh this is a long story!) later, we climbed into our taxi and at the last moment, our government official asked Mark for some cash - you know, for his help!! Even though it was all precisely as the book had described and we didn't really need his help. A quick gas stop (this Toyota Camry runs on gas!) and we were on our way. Mark and I passed out on each other's shoulders!
This is all going too well... we arrived at a tuk tuk station. Apparently a tuk tuk takes us the rest of the way - all included in the price, no problem. I told them which guesthouse we wanted to be taken too, and that too wasn't a problem.. until we were in our tuk tuk on the way, accompanied by another man (why?) who told us that unfortunately the guesthouse we wanted had closed down, but he knows of a great other one! Ofcourse he does... We arrived at No Problem Villa, aptly named as it turns out everything is really a problem for them. We checked out the room and decided that for just one night it was fine, clean and reasonably priced we took it. Anya and Marik where not so keen so they headed off in the other direction. Checked in, showered and decided we'd pop out for some food. As we were leaving, we were interrogated about where we were going. The first of many times!
Had a browse around a very dusty Siem Reap, and became increasingly grateful for the swimming pool and lush hotel that awaits us tomorrow. A delicious lunch at Khmer Kitchen only interrupted by the first of many heartbreaking sights of people with missing limbs, casualties of Khmer Rouge landmines. Between these and the very well rehearsed children (American accent and all) begging for money "give me money so I can go to school", Cambodia is already breaking my heart. Skepticism instilled in us thanks to Khao San Road, we don't know who to trust and how to organize a trip to the temples (yes, yes, we now know that it couldn't be easier) we booked through the gorgeous Villa Siam Reap who were recommended by a friend when they came to Cambodia a while ago. Also booked a tour of the floating village, but not the one everyone goes to, but rather a more unique one (with a higher price tag of course!) ... we'll see tomorrow I guess! Dinner at the Cambodia Soup Restaurant - delicious fish amok and chicken curry with spring rolls and Angkor beer! I'm loving Cambodian food...
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