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On our flight to Peru as I write this. Nat has just asked if the air stewardess is a stand-in. She does seem a far cry from KLM's high-class, leggy blonde (or at least the Argentinian equivalent). Then to top it all our meal has just been served and I think someone back in the catering dept has tipped an ashtray in the pasta.
Feel like getting back into the swing of travelling again. Shock to the system going to BA after Asia and Africa. Mixture of money issues (not having enough of the wonderful stuff), living out of a bag, city life and just the feeling of being in Europe but really 10 weeks away from that. Benefit being a decent coffee and croissant in the morning.
So, BA... Lime House is a great place to stay (20-24 pesos for a dorm bed). When we left enough people had complained about the parties til 6am that a notice was put up saying lights out at 2am then party on the roof terrace. Staff are uber helpful as are the long-time residents who were there for a month of partying at loads of gigs they had set up every weekend - Daft Punk, Yeah Yeah Yeahs, Creamfields, Black Eyed Peas, New Order, Madness... plus lots of bands I've never heard of.
The nightlife seemed fantastic and was mostly what the tourists/backpackers came for. We, unfortunately, were not up for it. Just couldn't hit it off with anyone we met or stay up long enough to go out with people we did click with. Recharged our batteries in any case. Still don't feel comfortable dancing in flip flips anyway. If only I'd brought those kitten heels.
We did mamage to see lots in BA though - we walked, shopped, drank and people watched. A great city with lots to offer and I will be back one day, if only to buy those shoes that I couldn't afford (but when has that stopped a purchase before?).
Highlights are the Recoleta and San Telmo districts. Recoleta is a very wealthy area where old ladies wrapped up in fur are helped into taxis by their concierge only to be taken 150m to the expensive shopping mall. We opted for the cheaper handicraft fair along the road where we popped into the cemetery to see Evita's tomb. San Telmo was fantastic on a Sunday where you can buy anything from screwdrivers and magnifying glasses to funky jewelry and a photo of you alongside live eskimos and mermaids. A buzz around the place not unlike the Lanes in Brighton.
We went to Tigre (40min train ride from BA) for 3 days as we thought it would be cheap for the last part of our Argentinian stay. Advice for Tigre visitors:
- no hostel in Tigre so you have to stay in the Delta at 30pesos for shared bathroom
- nothing to do in Tigre, at least midweek
- daytrip to Isla Martin Garcia for oldies but nice boat trip out to island but very scary mosquitoes and giants lizards/dinosaurs roaming the no man's land we were lost in
- 3 hr journey both ways and lunch not worth the extra so take a packed lunch
- take a BIG book or know more than two card games
We didn't give up though and 'roughed' the Hostel Delta where Nat was in her element with 2 cats and a dog. I had a little toddler to play with who was a bit needy after an hour.
So left Argentina with plenty of tips and ideas for future travels. Really gutted we missed the glaciers and penguins. Hugely disappointed with the food - in cost and taste. We did have some good pasta in Uruguay and once in BA but overall it was same same everywhere and fried or burnt. But with 2 pound bottles of good wine we washed it down well.
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