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The photo above was taken by Bhanu at Sundarbans- not related to Bogra but I like it and want to use it.
Back to Bogra.
From the grubby YMCA (passing Hotel Sod!)I moved to Red Chillies Guest House and enjoyed the nice clean room and delicious food. Two nights and 3 meals came to £18 and I thoroughly enjoyed my time there.
Taking two bus journeys I made my way the Unesco World Heritage site of Paharpur said once to be the biggest Bhuddist monastery south of the Himalaya dated from 8th Century.
I visited the museum first with its array of sandstone and basalt sculptures and a large bronze Bhudda.
By the time I came emerged a whole load of coaches arrived. Consequently many students were busy looking at me rather than the other old ruin!
LP book suggests that you can visit the very poor people that live on silt islands called chars. I didn't fancy ogling poor people.
Next I went to Rangpur.
It was a scruffy bus with some seedy passengers hawking and spitting away.
A strange women sat across from me. first grabbed my book out of my bag flicked through and returned it. She took my hand and admired my gold ring. Took my other hand and dismissed my beaded ring. Then she kept stroking my hands and looking in my eyes and muttering affectionately.
I had tried to book in to a GH run by an NGO recommended in LP book but couldn't get any joy on the phone. Just as well as it wasn't a nice town.
I bought a ticket for the overnight 1st class sleeper to Dhaka for £8.
I had a battle with each rickshaw driver wanting to charge 10 times more than what was right. The two main sights, Tajhat Palace and Carmichael College were dreadfully run down.
By now it was Valentines day and many happy couples were enjoying the gardens of the palace.
At Carmichaels college I met Konchan a politics student. He took me on his motorbike to a restaurant in town. He drove carefully but it was still a risk with Bangladesh traffic. He took me to Boaishaki Restaurant. I insisted on him eating with me. We had 3 bowls of rice, 2 fish, 1 chicken, cucumber and carrot salad and 2 coffees which all came to £2.
At the train station I tried to keep out of the way in the waiting room. It didn't work. One man tried to engage me in conversation and I had answered him politely then he changed his ticket to be with me. It didn't work.
Then I was asked to go into the office of a nice young ticket collector and sit in a big padded chair. It was interesting and sad as twice he had to fine someone for travelling without a ticket. It seemed quite discretionary and I didn't see any receipts given. He seemed decent enough as was the huge railway police man who brought them in.
Shown to my carriage I found I was sharing with a couple and their young son and I paid 50p for a pillow, sheet and cover. The compartment was covered in a thick layer of dust and when the window was slammed shut a load of dust went into my mouth which took ages to get out of my mouth.
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