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George and Eva
Homeward Bound
Well, it was time to leave Perth, hook a left, and head east, on the last leg of our journey.
We left Perth on the Sunday morning, planning to top up some fresh produce on the way. We found a Coles supermarket at about 9.30 am, still shut. We asked the local bakery when they would open - 11am. "Well, it is a Sunday." Nothing has really changed in Perth these past few years.
What followed were five days of intense driving through very flat and boring terrain, first to Kalgoorlie, then across the Nullarbor, then across the top of the Yorke Peninsula to Port Augusta.
We had covered this whole route earlier on our previous trip eight years ago, so didn't stop very often, but there were some general impressions of the trip.
First, Kalgoorlie. Last time we had passed through here on New Year's Eve, December 31, so it was pretty quiet and a few things were shut, which was not surprising. But we were very impressed by the grand architecture, the wide streets and many beautiful old buildings, and the mining stories from the past.
This time it was not New Year's Eve, it was a Monday morning, and the town was just as quiet. The wide streets were empty, the beautiful old buildings were shut, and there was very little activity anywhere. There were few shops, with even fewer shoppers. All the signs of past grandeur seemed well and truly in the past. It was a real let down. We had expected more.
The Nullarbor, also, was different to our expectations. I think the Nullarbor should always be seen from the east to the west, as we first saw it eight years ago. That way you see the farmlands getting gradually flatter and more arid, then you hit the treeless plain proper with its eerie landscapes, then you are overwhelmed by the Great Australian Bight which catches you by surprise and takes your breath away. By the time you get to the western end and there are a few more trees, you don't really mind because you are so bored by then. It is never quite as spectacular going west to east.
So we started our trek from Norseman going through land that was flat, but actually quite green and lush and full of trees - almost a forest. Even by the time we got to the treeless portion, it was much greener and lusher than on our previous trip. Now this may be for various reasons - it was August, late winter, not December / January. Also at Ceduna we heard there had been several years of good rain recently. But I think part of the issue was also where we had been.
The west coast of Western Australia is so dry and arid, so flat and featureless, that I think we had become acclimatized to that sort of terrain. The Nullarbor, which had at first seemed so arid to our eastern states sensibilities, now appeared absolutely lush in comparison.
At the eastern end of the Nullarbor we stopped at a small town called Penong. This is the first stop on the Nullarbor that is an actual town, not just a roadhouse. As we approached the town, even the paving of the road changed, as if they were rolling out the red carpet for us. On our previous trip we had stopped at the pub in Penong and had a steak dinner. These steaks were wonderful, and had gone down in the Youssef family tradition and history, so we had to stop and try them again. Well, they were just as good. And several people staying at Penong Caravan Park had found comments on Wikicamps about how good the food at the pub is. So its not just us.
The next stop was Ceduna, and this was also different to what we remembered. Previously we had approached Ceduna on a Saturday night, and had been warned about the wild drunken brawls, so had avoided staying in town. We came into town on the Sunday morning and found some evidence of the night's work. It was hot, the streets were empty and dirty, and we didn't stay long.
This time, again it was much more green and lush, the town was clean and tidy and surrounded by nice beaches, and the lady at the Tourist Info Centre told us all about the many industries in town. This included farming, salt mining, and a large wharf where all this was shipped out. The other 'industry', as she stated, was the many Aboriginal people in town. This provided employment for various government departments, social workers etc. (It also explained why we had been warned last time.) When the lady mentioned this was one of the 'industries' in town, George innocently asked if they are an industry,what do they produce? She stared back blankly.
Across the top of the Yorke Peninsula was a small town called Kimba (which I was very excited about as this was my favorite cartoon when I was a child.) It had nothing to do with white lions, but it did have a giant galah.
GeorgeY's bit
Ceduna had a nice beach and a decorative lighthouse. As soon as I saw the lighthouse, the only thing I could think of was " Batteries not included ". We have seen Big Bananas and the like, as well as small lighthouses, but this one is the gold standard in miniaturization.
Ceduna was surrounded by carpets of wheat fields, very green and looking good. They produce 75% of SA wheat. Salt is the other product and we saw a mountain of it at the port ready for shipping. At the tourist information the other large industry, I have been told, does not produce anything but provides employment. As I went out I noticed the industrialists lingering around town, flat out unproductive and looking unfocussed enough to warrant the next phase of expanding the business. I do not know what the galah represents.
Well, it was time to leave Perth, hook a left, and head east, on the last leg of our journey.
We left Perth on the Sunday morning, planning to top up some fresh produce on the way. We found a Coles supermarket at about 9.30 am, still shut. We asked the local bakery when they would open - 11am. "Well, it is a Sunday." Nothing has really changed in Perth these past few years.
What followed were five days of intense driving through very flat and boring terrain, first to Kalgoorlie, then across the Nullarbor, then across the top of the Yorke Peninsula to Port Augusta.
We had covered this whole route earlier on our previous trip eight years ago, so didn't stop very often, but there were some general impressions of the trip.
First, Kalgoorlie. Last time we had passed through here on New Year's Eve, December 31, so it was pretty quiet and a few things were shut, which was not surprising. But we were very impressed by the grand architecture, the wide streets and many beautiful old buildings, and the mining stories from the past.
This time it was not New Year's Eve, it was a Monday morning, and the town was just as quiet. The wide streets were empty, the beautiful old buildings were shut, and there was very little activity anywhere. There were few shops, with even fewer shoppers. All the signs of past grandeur seemed well and truly in the past. It was a real let down. We had expected more.
The Nullarbor, also, was different to our expectations. I think the Nullarbor should always be seen from the east to the west, as we first saw it eight years ago. That way you see the farmlands getting gradually flatter and more arid, then you hit the treeless plain proper with its eerie landscapes, then you are overwhelmed by the Great Australian Bight which catches you by surprise and takes your breath away. By the time you get to the western end and there are a few more trees, you don't really mind because you are so bored by then. It is never quite as spectacular going west to east.
So we started our trek from Norseman going through land that was flat, but actually quite green and lush and full of trees - almost a forest. Even by the time we got to the treeless portion, it was much greener and lusher than on our previous trip. Now this may be for various reasons - it was August, late winter, not December / January. Also at Ceduna we heard there had been several years of good rain recently. But I think part of the issue was also where we had been.
The west coast of Western Australia is so dry and arid, so flat and featureless, that I think we had become acclimatized to that sort of terrain. The Nullarbor, which had at first seemed so arid to our eastern states sensibilities, now appeared absolutely lush in comparison.
At the eastern end of the Nullarbor we stopped at a small town called Penong. This is the first stop on the Nullarbor that is an actual town, not just a roadhouse. As we approached the town, even the paving of the road changed, as if they were rolling out the red carpet for us. On our previous trip we had stopped at the pub in Penong and had a steak dinner. These steaks were wonderful, and had gone down in the Youssef family tradition and history, so we had to stop and try them again. Well, they were just as good. And several people staying at Penong Caravan Park had found comments on Wikicamps about how good the food at the pub is. So its not just us.
The next stop was Ceduna, and this was also different to what we remembered. Previously we had approached Ceduna on a Saturday night, and had been warned about the wild drunken brawls, so had avoided staying in town. We came into town on the Sunday morning and found some evidence of the night's work. It was hot, the streets were empty and dirty, and we didn't stay long.
This time, again it was much more green and lush, the town was clean and tidy and surrounded by nice beaches, and the lady at the Tourist Info Centre told us all about the many industries in town. This included farming, salt mining, and a large wharf where all this was shipped out. The other 'industry', as she stated, was the many Aboriginal people in town. This provided employment for various government departments, social workers etc. (It also explained why we had been warned last time.) When the lady mentioned this was one of the 'industries' in town, George innocently asked if they are an industry,what do they produce? She stared back blankly.
Across the top of the Yorke Peninsula was a small town called Kimba (which I was very excited about as this was my favorite cartoon when I was a child.) It had nothing to do with white lions, but it did have a giant galah.
GeorgeY's bit
Ceduna had a nice beach and a decorative lighthouse. As soon as I saw the lighthouse, the only thing I could think of was " Batteries not included ". We have seen Big Bananas and the like, as well as small lighthouses, but this one is the gold standard in miniaturization.
Ceduna was surrounded by carpets of wheat fields, very green and looking good. They produce 75% of SA wheat. Salt is the other product and we saw a mountain of it at the port ready for shipping. At the tourist information the other large industry, I have been told, does not produce anything but provides employment. As I went out I noticed the industrialists lingering around town, flat out unproductive and looking unfocussed enough to warrant the next phase of expanding the business. I do not know what the galah represents.
- comments
Lee Wow, hard to believe you are homeward bound, seems like just yesterday you left! How long do you have left on your trip?