The top of volcan Pacaya was a bit like what I imagine the surface of the moon would be like. Jagged, porous, weighless rocks crumbling beneath where you walk, a crater in the distance emitting smoke. Most people hike or even run away from mountains emitting smoke. We decided to pay a guide to take us towards it (perhaps Guatemalans are a lot smarter because you really only see gringos on these tours). We were a bit unsure as to whether or not we should do the tour as an earthquake had shook Antigua (where we were staying) that afternoon. Adam and I were walking down the cobblestone streets and didn't even notice the ground was shaking. Luckily, a couple of terrified Guatemalans standing in a doorway clued us into the action. Nonetheless, our guide assured us everthing was ok and that the volcano could be safely ascended that afternoon. The hike itself was pretty brutal, fast paced with lots of "shortcuts" (aka scrambles up a steep rocky hill off the path) along the way. An hour and a half later, fatigued and out of breath, we made it to the top of the volcano. The rocks at the top emitted heat and threatened to melt the tread right off our shoes! A steady river of molten lava flowed next to us with the sun setting behind it. Every once in a while you'd hear another tourist say "Oh, hot, hot!" We like everyone else couldn't help but think, "This would NEVER happen in the U.S." We had a few minutes to snap a some pics, be mesmorized by the river of flowing lava and of course roast a couple of marshmellows (FYI..Guatemala sells strawberry flavored, which aren't half bad!). We climbed down before it got too dark, the volcano glowing red behind us. The night ended with us tired, sweaty, covered in ash, and remembering fondly the short time we spent at the submit of Volcan Pacaya.