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We headed off to Lares this weekend, famous locally for its natural thermal springs with 'medicinal properties'. After negotiating a price with a taxi driver, and travelling for a few miles, it quickly became evident that the guy had never been to Lares before and had no idea what the journey would entail. A few hours later, bumping along the unpaved road, and asking directions from anyone we passed, we arrived in the village.
The hostal we stayed in for the first night was a delightful little place, for just a few soles. Awoken by the cockeral in the morning we walked up the track to the baths; again surrounded by majestic mountains. Adjacent to the springs are a few little huts, where we stayed for the second night. Here there is no electricity, the walls are made of cardboard, and there are mud floors. It is probably the quaintest, and most charming hut I have ever stayed in.
I spent the day walking along the river that rushed around the boulders along its ceaseless course, and then up the hills on a picturesque track. I met a litter of eight piglets, was run past by porters and ponies, and was surrounded by local children 'hola-ing' at me as I sat on a rock surveying the valley (and across to an intricately made football pitch on which hundreds of sheep were grazing!). We spent the evening in the baths watching the nights sky including shooting stars! It was truly magical.
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