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Sunday 22/08/2010 98
My intention this morning was to attempt to replace a pair of shorts that I decided are too worn and need to be thrown out, however upon leaving the hostel I discovered that Nice does not have Sunday trading. One shop was open, the sign on the door informing customers that it would only be open on Sundays during peak season which lasts another 3 weeks apparently. Here I brought exorbitantly priced sunscreen...FYI bring your own sunscreen when visiting Europe.
A stroll through the winding streets of Old Nice and then a nap at the hostel before a final visit to the beach, a cheap woven beach mat made the stone slightly more comfortable, was all that the rest of the day entailed.
Saturday 21/08/2010 99
Today, whilst heading to the small mountain village of Eze, the bus broke down. After waiting for 45 minutes, a replacement bus arrived and after driving past some amazing views of the sea and super yachts we arrived in the tiny village. Not much is there, but I did stroll among a group of old stone buildings, clinging to the top of a mountain. The buildings are the remains of a fort built to keep out invaders, but did not manage to serve their purpose. Nowadays, the buildings form a famous hotel (the Cheval d'Or-Golden Goat), which has been stayed in by Walt Disney, and many artists studios and gift shops.
A lazy arvo and an early night, completed the day.
Friday 20/08/2010 100
Waking up to persistent rain was not at all expected on the Riviera in August, but that is was there was this morning. After a quick check of the weather forecast, which suggested that the rain would clear up a lunchtime, I had to change hostels (I was unable to extend my stay at the first place). At the new hostel I was offered a private room with ensuite for the same price, being not stupid and wanting a night of sleep that would not be interrupted by snoring Germans, I gratefully accepted.
Despite the rain, I began the day with a stroll to the water and then up the side of the hill to the Parc du Chateau, a large park complete with an artificial waterfall. The rain stopped and I walked through a cemetery and then the winding, sloping streets of Old Nice toward MAMAC, the contemporary and modern art museum. It houses work from 20th century artists such as Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein as well as a large display by Yves Klein (who was born in Nice, had a short but celebrated career and died as just 32).
Then again to the beach, once again attempting to get comfortable on the stones and swimming in the crystal clear water. Unlike most beaches in Australia, the water got very deep very quickly, but even when unable to touch the bottom it could still be seen. Today the stones actually left me with a bruise on the sole of one of my feet.
Thursday 19/08/2010 101
Today I visited another country, by jumping on a 20 minute train to the principality of Monaco. Ruled by the Grimaldi family (current head Prince Albert, whose name always makes me laugh!), it is a tax haven, known for gambling, James Bond and the F1 Grand Prix which races through the streets. After we arrived we (Isobel and I) walked up the hill and visited the palace in time for the changing of the guard.
Next was lunch at a cafe on the edge of the port, looking out on mega yachts and the blue of the Med. A stroll along the waterfront, past some of the luxury hotels and apartment blocks to the casino, where you are charged even to get in...and onto the beach. The beach, once again, did not have sand but it did have small pebbles unlike the largish stones of Nice.
After returning to Nice, a late dinner at a cafe on the Promenade du Anglais ended the day.
Wednesday 18/08/2010 102
Nice, for it's small size has an impressive artistic legacy, I guess due to it's location. Yves Klein (most famous for his use of vibrant blue) was born here and many artists worked here. There are museums in Nice dedicated to 2 such artists. The first, and the first museum I visited, was Henri Matisse. The Matisse Museum is located in a villa and is full of work covering his entire career, from the copies he did at the Louvre as a student, to preparatory work for the chapel he designed late in his life. As is often the case I was found the drawings and paper cut outs more interesting. Matisse is capable of beautifully capturing forms within a few line of a couple of shapes. His work has a wonderful 'economy of line and clarity of thought' (I wish that was my line but I probably just read it somewhere.
Next I visited the Chagall Museum. Dedicated during his lifetime, Chagall himself oversaw the set up of the museum and was instrumental in deciding how many of the works are displayed. Chagall was born in Russia, and many of the paintings displayed in the museum illustrate scenes and stories from the Old Testament. Chagall's paintings are vibrantly coloured and full of detail, usually incorporating an image of his home town.
After 'art-ing it up' I returned to the hostel to make use of the free wifi and later went to the beach with someone I met in the Hostel, Isobel from Uruguay. The beach was chockas and the small section of private beach was flanked by private sections which require that you rent a sun lounge. The beach was made of rocks that unlike those in England were much bigger than small pebbles and rather uncomfortable to sit on!
In the evening we strolled down the main street of Nice and along the illuminated waterfront.
Tuesday 17/08/2010 103
After leaving the bright and colourful Sunshine Hostel, I wandered back up to the Australian Consulate to cast my vote in the federal election. British consulate=army men with machine guns, Australian consulate=unarmed guy in overalls and a nice Italian man recording passport numbers...hmmm (you weren't allowed to take a bag in though). After voting I went to MACRO (Museum of Contemporary Art).
Lots of stuff that most people would not consider art, such as a giant salt crystal construction accompanied by sea monkeys in tanks, but also some beautiful work. One such piece was an installation by American artist Jacob Hashimoto. Entitled 'Silence still governs our consciousness' it is hundreds of paper and wicker kites (some decorated but most plain white) hanging on black string and filling a room. The overall effect was like clouds floating in space.
I then had my last stroll around Rome, stopping today at the 'Magic Doorway' a stone door covered in mysterious engravings. It is believed that the symbols are the formula to create the Philosopher's Stone and that no one is able to decipher them but the owner put them there in the hopes that one day someone would pass the door and crack the code.
Next stop was another church, this time the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, boasting Rome's tallest bell tower, it was much like most of the other churches I had visited...lots of gold leaf, mosaic-ed marble floors and frescos galore. I then had my last Rome Gelato, this time at Rome's oldest Gelateria which has been in the same location since 1880.
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