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Tuesday 8th March
Early start today - away to catch our flight to Bali.After a 4 hour flight we arriveat the airport.As soon as we step off the plane you can feel the heat! We have forgotten to bring US dollars to pay our visa on arrival.The lady says to go and use the ATM, however the ATM is on the other side of passport control and you can't get through without a visa.We approach an official looking man. He takes us through to the atm and back to get our visas.He has a tight hold of our passports and is not giving them back.He puts out his hand and says '100,000 rp'.What a joke! Not a good start.Do not expect anything for nothing in Indonesia.Got a taxi to a small hotel we saw on internet but it is way out of the centre.We arrive and they say the room is '400,000 rp'.Double what it says on the internet.As we are so far out the centre we decide to pay it.The hotel was 'Tannani Rosani' in Kerobokan.Do not stay here.It was a rip off and we then find out that we can get similar rooms in Kuta for less than half.
Off to the beach I think.Not staying in this room.We go to the beach at Legian/Seminyak.IM SO SHOCKED.The beach is disgusting - who would pay to come to this? The beach has black muddy sand, the beach is covered in litter, everything there is someone begging or trying to sell you something.There are hundreds of dogs just roaming about.This is not what I expected.I thought Bali was a honeymoon destination.Why waste your money?We decide we are going to move into the centre, Kuta tomorrow so we can book a bus out of here and go up to Ubud.We arrive in Kuta - god can it get any worse! Everyone is wasted. Every couple of steps you are asked 'mushrooms' or 'sexy massage' (this was directed at Henry!).If you want a tacky holiday with trashy clubs, lots of drugs, partying and prostitutes then come to Kuta.
We go along Poppies 1 & 2 to find some accommodation. We come across a nice place on Poppies 2 called 'Rhonda Bungalows'.We ask to see a room.There is a nice double bed with a lovely balcony with a table and two chairs.You also get breakfast included and it is only 175,000 rp.I would recommend this as the place was very clean, basic but was good value.
Friday 11th March
We have booked a bus to Ubud as it is supposed to be nicer up there. The bus takes around 1.5 hours but it is great to sit back, relax and look at everything on the way.We get dropped off at the Perama bus office.We meet another 2 backpackers called Jo (Belgian) and Pierre (French)We all head off in search for accommodation.We come to this place called 'Dewi Ayu' on Monkey Forest Road.It looks okay.There are a lot of bugs everywhere but we are over budget so need to bring our costs down and manage to get the room for 132,000 rp a night with breakfast.Very good value!There is a pool so that makes up for it! J
Saturday 12th March
Long lie today - well so we hoped - there is a bloody cockerel cock-a-doodle-doing at 6am! It goes on for hours - I want to go out and kill it but Henry says I'm not allowed lol.Think we will go to the Monkey Forest today! 20,000 rp to get in per person.There are monkeys everywhere! It is pretty scary at first as they are jumping on people etc but after a while you get used to them running about etc.Henry is trying to tease some of them - one turns around and snarls at him.It was quite funny watching them jumping on people and them all running about screaming!We go for a walk up the street and pass some beautiful temples.There is a local Balinese dance going on in one of the large temples.We head up to the markets but they are closed.(If you want to see the Ubud markets watch 'Eat, Pray, Love' film with Julia Roberts.In the last part of the movie it was filmed in Ubud).There is a restaurant called 'W. Dayu' on Monkey Forest Road nearer the bottom, before the monkey forest andit is very reasonable prices and the food was fantastic.Back to our room.Im getting used to staying in these conditions now as after a few days it starts to feel homely. So not looking forward to that bloody cockerel again tomorrow morning.We are off on a tour tomorrow.We are using the tour agency 'Three Brothers'.The tour includes:
- Goa Gajah - Elephant Cave Temple
- Fruit plantation
- Hot springs
- The viewing of Mount Batur (active volcano) and Lake Batur
- Rice terraces
Sunday 13th March
We have our breakfast of tea, banana pancake and fresh fruit - YUM.It is such good value our room as you get a big breakfast every morning.We set off on the start of our tours.
We first arrive at the Elephant Cave Temple.It costs us another 40,000 rp each to get in,No-one told us we had to pay extra.Always check when booking a tour as there are ALWAYS hidden extras.Not off to a good start.Once in the temple grounds a guide comes up to use and ask if we would like to know a little about the temple.Yes that would be nice I thought - then he asked for money before he started - for god sake!!!!!We say no and walk around on our own.We then walk up to go to another temple and two old local ladies stop us and ask if we would like our photos taking with them.I ask how much? They do not answer.They then ask us or money just for taking a photograph with them.We say no and continue on to the next temple within the grounds.There is a guy standing at the entrance - he asks for money I say to Hen - let's get out of here as I was now pissed off.Why did I pay the 40,000 rp each to get in for them to try and charge me more at every point. Do not waste your money by going here.
We say to our guide that because we paid a lot of money for the tour that we only want to go to places that will not ask us for more money.He takes us to the fruit plantation.Can't wait to see the 'civit cat' coffee.These cats are kept in cages and fed the coffee beans, then once they have passed through the cats digestive system they poo then out and then the coffee beans are then used to make coffee.It is very, very expensive coffee too.I think I will buy some to bring home.We also get to try the ginseng coffee, lemongrass tea and ginger tea - all really nice especially the ginseng coffee.
We head further up into the hills to go to the viewing point of Mount Batur volcano and Lake Batur.It is such a lovely view.Our guide tells us to be careful here as the locals are a lot more aggressive and push you buy things etc.We then head down the hill to go to the hot springs.Really looking forward to this.We arrive and it is not what we expected but it still looks really good.We get into the first pool which was the swimming pool - it wasn't that warm so we move into the main hot spring pool.It was toasty and so nice.There were a few other pools.Our skin started to feel so soft.I looked around and notice that Henry and I were the only white people here. We later found out that Sunday at the hot springs is local day so that's why we were the only white people here lol.
We leave the hot springs and try to get back up the hill but there is a major traffic jam as on our way down we saw a truck tip off the side of the hill and they are now trying to pull it out.We get out our vehicle as there is a chance it could come crashing down the hill onto us.Luckily after 10mins we move up passed it.Thank god!Our guide says he knows a nice place to eat at the rice terraces.It is called 'Warung Ceking'.People come to this restaurant for it's suckling pig - YUM! Would recommend.It also has the best view (if sitting upstairs) right across the rice terraces.
That was the end of our tour.We are off to Padang Bai tomorrow to get the fast boat across to Gili Trawanga! So excited as it's supposed to be a little bit of paradise.
Monday 14th March
We get on the fast boat to Gili Trawanga - it only takes 1 hour compared to the ferry which can take up to 6 hours!The boat goes right up onto the sand and everyone starts to jump off the boat.Already I love this island.It is so beautiful.We grab our rucksacks and head off to Big Bubble.We get a double room with a fan and it is very clean and nice.They have a cushioned seated area out on your little porch to sit and read or chill.It is very nice.Luxury compared with what we had been in.We are going to do our PADI Open Water Scuba Diving course here so thought we may as well stay here for a week.We get our room at a discounted price at 200,000 a night including breakfast and tea and coffee throughout the day. It is a little over our budget but with doing the course here it is better to stay.Our 4 day course will start on Wednesday.I am actually so scared as I can't even jump or dive into a swimming pool - how am I going to dive and stay UNDER water.No chance!Go for a walk around to see where everything is.It has a lovely atmosphere here.
Tuesday 15th March
There are no cars or scooters on the island.The only transport is a push bike or horse and cart.It is actually quite nice.So we decide to hire some bikes and go for a cycle and explore the island.We manage to cycle around the whole island in a hour and a half. It was nice to see all the different accommodation around the island.We stopped a little local shop stall and got some fresh pineapple.The lady cuts and peels it and serves it to us.We sit on the beach looking over the sea eating our fresh pineapple in glorious sunshine - BLISS!
There are lots of fabby restaurants some more catered for tourists which you need as you will soon get fed up of the Indonesian food as it's all very similar and rice with everything - if I see anymore rice I'm going to scream.
Wednesday 16th March
We start our theory for our PADI Open Water course today.It looks quite complicated.We meet our tutor Steph (who is British) and she talks us through what we are going to be doing over the next 4 days.Henry is really excited!
Thursday 17th March
The day is here.We are starting our scuba diving today.We start around 9 and we have a session in the pool.I am very, very nervous and keep coming up to the surface.I find it really hard to feel safe under the water.My heart is beating so fast and I'm shaking loads and we are only in the shallow end of the pool! I honestly think I will not be able to dive in the sea.I am so scared.Henry of course is like some kind of fish and does not panic once and is loving it.We then start to do some skills in the pool but this time at the deep end.It is around 3m deep.As you go down you have to equalize your ears.I find it so hard to breathe in and out through my regulator.It just does not feel right! If I can't do the basics in 3m of water how am I going to do 4 dives in the ocean???Steph the instructor is so good at taking here time with me and calming me down.We stop for lunch and then go back to meet Steph to pick up our equipment to do our first dive.I am so not ready for this.I only had 1.5 hours in the pool.We get on the boat and there are lots of people going diving.We are going to Manta Point.Everyone is at a different level of experience.The boat stops and it is time for us to fall backwards off the boat (fully kitted out in scuba equipment).ARE YOU KIDDING ME! I can't even jump in a pool how can I roll backwards into the sea.I burst our crying as I am so scared, I feel like such a baby but i'm petrified of water.Everyone is waiting on me so I just chuck myself back.When I come to the surface I am shaking and feel like I'm going to have a heart attack.Steph and Henry wait until I have calmed down and we start our descent into 12m of water - AAAAHHHHH!
After 35 minutes we make our ascent and come back to the surface.I actually feel so ill.I am still in shock that I even stayed down there for 35mins, everything is a blur and I can't remember seeing much.That is it for the day.Back again at 9am to do it all over again.
Things we saw: Trigger Fish, Butterfly Fish, Angel Fish, Rabbit Fish, Clown Fish (nemo), Blue Fin Travelli, Sweetlips, Spade fish and a turtle!
Friday 18th March
I have had NO sleep as I have been having nightmares about everything that could go wrong in diving.I have decided not to continue as it's too much for me.I have actually made myself ill worrying about it.I meet with our instructor Steph and tell her how I am feeling.She completely understands as some people just can't do it.She suggests that we spend a day in the pool doing lots of practice and skills and then see how I feel.I think this is a good idea and Henry is excited too.Today has been so different in the pool.Everything seems easier and not so scary.I'm glad I didn't give up.Still very nervous about another dive tomorrow but feel lots more confident and Steph made me go over and over things until I was sure.Henry is loving the extra time in the pool doing all the skills and staying under water.He is really enjoying it.So let's see how we both get on tomorrow.
Saturday 19th March
We go diving around 10am.It feels different this time.I start to notice all the amazing things around me.There is the coral, fish, turtles! It actually feels kind of good being down here.Henry is investigating everything.He is having the time of his life.Maybe this diving is not so bad after all.
Steph says I have now passed my Scuba Diving but if I do the 2 dives tomorrow and pass the exam I will receive my PADI Open Water.I said I'll think about it.
Things we saw today at Hans Reef was: Lion Fish, Trigger Fish, Angel Fish, Unicorn Fish, Rabbit Fish and Squirrel Fish.
Sunday 20th March
Two dives today.Friday and Saturday we dived to 12m but today we are diving to 18m.A bit deeper so I am a little anxious.I tell Steph and Henry that im coming on the dives!!!! J they are very happy.We get on the boat and go out to Manta Point again.I now even fell quite confident about my backwards roll into the ocean.
Things we saw at Manta Point today: WE SEE A SHARK (white tip reef shark around 1.3m long) I literally peed myself lol, Henry is loving it.We also see Hawksbill and Green turtles, bumphead parrot fish, trigger fish, trumpet fish, angel fish, nemos, snapper fish, sweetlips fish, butterfly fish.
Our afternoon dive is at Meno Wall.We go to 18m like this mornings dive.We see: surgeon fish, angel fish, turtles, lion fish, cuttle fish, groper fish, baby cat fish, Mozambique scorpion fish.
I can't believe I have done my 4 dives.I am so proud considering my fear of water before! Henry has loved every minute of it.We sit our exam and pass.We are now PADI Open Water Scuba Divers.This means we can both dive to a maximum of 18m on our own (with a buddy of course!).I'm very happy!
- comments
deirdre could have told you about the corruption in Bali. I thought I mentioned about the enrty visa. We paid in rupia to the disgust of the local officials at as they wanted US dollars the airport and like wise for the exit visa. yes, you have to pay to leave Bali so remember to retain some rupia. Bali is n our list of places never to visit again, it ranks top. Totally agree re filth, smells, open sewers, stray dogs (was worried about them being rabid) and the beggers who are very aggressive. Many of them are people who lost their livelihood after the Bali bombing so can feel sorry for them. Agree the elephant temple was also a rip off. We stayed in a 4*+ hotel and were upgraded to a deluxe room. It probably compared to a 3* in KL. Whatever you do, don't drink the water. We avioude it but Gerry put ice in his whisky, made from tap water and he had an extreme bout of Bali belly and was ill for days. I drank the local beer and was OK. Other thing to watch out for is if you are changing money. They'll count it out in front of you and then have a trick where they fold the notes in half and you are only given 1/2 of your exchange. The sand is black because it is volcanic. To be quite frank, I would rather spend a fortnight in Blackpool in Feb than go back there. A friend who has travelled all over SE Asia and rates Bali as once seen best forgotten.She says Cambodia is her favourite country out there, still quite unspoilt and the people are lovely. By the way, watch out for the mozzies in Bali, they have teeth. Avon skin so soft worked for me. We are not going to Christchurch this autumn, have booked up for Hong Kong, Penang and Dubai instead. It will take Christchurch years to recover and all the rugby matches have been rescheduled elsewhere in NZ.