We've just returned from dinner at Denise's house. When booking our B&B, we were informed that the landlord of the local pub had recently died and that no one had taken over the tenancy yet. We were horror struck that we might not be able to get any dinner, but were soon informed that all will be well: "Call Denise from across the road. She'll look after you" and she really did! Andy had lamb, I had salmon, we both had apple crumble for pudding. It was amazing. Whilst there, we even managed to bag a couple of Wainwrights (award winning golden ale).

Through the window, I can see Hadrian's Wall cross the fields in a perfectly straight line. This is the longest unbroken stretch of the wall and it really is impressive. It's fitting that we have crossed the ancient barrier between England and Scotland, as somewhere and sometime today we passed our half way point. Today is also going down in the record books as our best, most scenic day to date.

We woke at the crack of dawn (literally) as the sun pierced its way through our inadequate curtains. Naturally, this didn't stop us going back to sleep, enjoying a hearty breakfast, and setting off at a more leisurely time. Sluggish to start, we thankfully found our cycling legs before reaching Kirkstone Pass, our big climb for the day. Despite seeing some chevrons on the map, I am happy to report that this was not the hardest climb I have ever done. Either that or the landscape was so incredible that I didn't really notice the climb. The sun shone through the valley below and made the grass and trees almost a translucent green. The road turned from the valley and Lake Windermere came into view far below. Everywhere around us there were sheep grazing… some of them living life on the edge and sitting in the road.

At the top we went past a sign signalling left for Ambleside via 'the struggle'. With such a horrid sounding name, I was very pleased we weren't going that way. We came across some cyclist coming the other way and it turned out they were cycling from JOG to LE. They advised us to buy some bug spray for Scotland, we told them to get off their bikes on the Severn Bridge. Andy felt bad as they had already been through Carlisle today, and we had only done 15km, but I pointed out that they probably felt bad as they had a support car, and we had all our kit. The descent was long and straight, and with so few bends, I managed to make it down without walking… a good step forwards, I thought.

Once down, we skirted around Ullswater (the second biggest lake in the Lake District), before heading north towards Carlisle where we were welcomed by my Uncle Paul and Cousin Adam. Paul and Adam had driven from Suffolk that morning, parked their car and came to meet us and cycle some of the way with us. They are then going to do some 'proper biking' tomorrow in Dumfries. It was so lovely to see them and have someone else to talk to! Our evening conversation was starting to run a little dry: "so, how was your day dear?" After a quick peak at Carlisle cathedral and castle, we turned East and made our way to Hadrian's Wall.

Cycle route 72 is about 180 miles long and runs the length of Hadrian's Wall. There is also a long distance footpath that does the same. We joined the cycle route to Gilsand and along the way saw quite a few cyclists and walkers. Lots more conversations with cyclists ensued, most of whom were very impressed by what we were doing which made us feel proud. We stopped at Lanercost Priory, which despite being caught in the Anglo-Scottish wars, is still one of the best preserved Cumbrian monasteries. A couple more photo stops at the wall before reaching our B&B and having tea and biscuits in the garden overlooking the rolling countryside. Paul and Adam still had another 5 miles to cycle to their car, so we said our goodbyes and resumed our evening routine: shower, laundry, dinner, blog, bed.

Tomorrow we should cross the modern-day Scottish border.

Todays statistics:
Distance: 103km (926km to date)
Elevation: 1437m
Andy's breakfast score: 6/10

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/196708821