Returning to the madness to BA after our chillout session in La Isolina we found ourselves amongst familiar faces as we all met up for Creamfields. The only noticeable absentees were Dave (fell in love in La Paloma) and Murray (left it too late to change his flight) - muppets!! Bally directed us to a fantastic steak at Goya, it transpired we would eat there 3 days out of the next 4, it was that good! 10th November had arrived, the day of Creamfields. The host...

The hassle of sitting in the nasty Retiro bus station for 5 hours was worth it to get to the estancia, wow, what a fantastic place! Met off the bus at Olavarria by Maria and Jorge, the owners, and then a 20 minute drive into the pampas to their home. A superb 1920´s Anglo-French style building in the heart of their 500 hectar ranch. The 5 star treatment started immediately as we were greeted with a glass of fine red wine by the house staff, and the energetic...

An early 3hr ferry to Montevideo and another passport stamp we weren't expecting, then having to wait 4 hrs for a bus at Tres Cruces, which wasnt so bad as the building was also home to a huge shopping centre, we finaly arrived in the sleepy seaside town of La Paloma. With no guide book for Uruaguay and having not bothered to gather any other information before leaving BA apart from where La Paloma was we asked a taxi driver to take us to a Hostel. "Todo Ce...

Travelling over night on our first cama suite (bed bus) we arrived in Buenos Aires and headed for the barrio of San Telmo. It was a Sunday and Election Day to boot and apart from the bustling little craft market on Plaza Dorrego, the city was fairly quiet. We wandered downtown and saw the Plaze de Mayo and Evitas balcony on the Casa Rosada and took a walk up Florida street, one of the main shopping thoroughfare. We took an early evening stroll along the renovat...

The bus broke down about half an hour out of town, we sat on the side of the road in the climbing heat until our driver managed to flag down a passing coach (from a rival company) which we clambered onto. If Mendoza was hot then Salta was sticky. We were hoping for a town of the same ilk as the likes of Sucre with a large indigenous population and grand Colonial architecture, given its proximity to Bolivia. What we found was a shabby mix of contrete blocks and ...