Hello All,

I am currently hiding from the rain in Hanoi, Vietnam and not all that long away from my final destination. Since I last wrote I've been in Cambodia, Laos and here Vietnam. I've seen motor bikes, tuk-tuks, buffalo, horse, men, women and children carrying more than i'd ever have managed possible and things I have never seen before. I've done and seen lots of pretty cool things. But mostly I have been shopping!

I met with friends, Kate and Dale for Cambodia and Laos and had a brill time. Both Cambodia and Laos are a haven from the hustle and bustle of Thailand and Vietnam. In Phnom Penh I was shocked by the so recent cruelty of the Khmer Rouge's at the killing fields. Saddened by the number of people missing limbs from land mines. Amused by the children who played in the rain while we dived for the nearest bar to escape it . In Siem Reap I was amazing by the size on Angkor Wat and a little scared when our tuk-tuk took flight having been hit by a 4WD! Cambodia was a great country but not quite as good as Laos.....

The Lonely Planet says something about not being hassled by tuk-tuk drivers in Laos and having to actually persuade one to take you somewhere.....My thoughts were AS IF! But it was true! Amazing! We spent most of our time in Luang Prabang, a lovely little town with an excellent night market. From here we did a 2 day trip getting out into the country. The trip began with cycling up some pretty humongous hills for a few hours, followed by a few hours trekking through rice and pineapple fields in incredible heat. We arrived at our home stay early evening where we played with the children and their toys made of plastic bottles, twigs and the odd bit of string. We went to sleep in little wooden huts and listened to the huge storm above over heads and felt the ground rumble as the thundered and lightening hit. In the morning we did a couple more hours of trekking and then 4 hours in the kayak back to Luang Prabang. The next stop was Vang Viang, a famous backpackers stop for TUBING- Floating down a brown river on inflatable tubes, stopping at the many bars along the way who pull you into the bank by throwing you a rope with a plastic bottle attached. In Vientiane i said goodbye to Kate and Dale and set off on my 23rd flight of the trip to Hanoi.

Hanoi! What a busy city. Now even at the best of times i find cities a bit too noisy and bit too busy but this is a different kind of busyness and noisiness! I have never, ever seen so many motorbikes- you share the road the foot path and even the shops with them. I think the road has 2 sides but it is hard to tell because they are just everywhere and anywhere. You walk down the road and as well as dodging the motorbikes you are asked constantly- You want moto ride? You want book lady? You want fan? Silk dress lady? Pineapple? You take picture of me? All over the sound of hoot-hoot, honk-honk! I have to psych myself up every time i leave the hostel!

From Hanoi I went over to Halong Bay..... which i believe would have been stunning had we not been in the midst of a typhoon which meant we could see very little. We did a little bit of kayaking and a lot of drink and spent the night aboard the boat.

Next it was up on the over night train to Sapa for a couple of days trekking, home stay and shopping. Our first day was a very wet walk through, over and across rice fields, all the time accompanied by local Hamong people who are not silly. They know we'll need them to help us climb up slippery hills, pull you out of muddy puddles and even catch you when slide uncontrollable down a hill....and as a result you will buy something from them at the end. They wake up in the morning, walk 18km to Sapa from their village where they hang around waiting for trekkers and attach themselves to you, ask you all kinds of questions and remarkably remember all your answers, then they walk the 18km back to the villages with you....all this to get perhaps a pound or two from selling their handicrafts. We spent the night at a home stay where they introduced you to the delights or rice wine and refused to let you stop until you've had about 13 shots and close to passing out. A very good and funny evening had in various forms of broken English! No hangover in the morning though! The next stop was Bac Ha market, a huge market where villagers from up to 30km away migrate to every Sunday to buy anything from pots and pans, to a buffalo or an addition to their tradition costume. This is a big social event where people meet to socialise and hopefully meet themselves a wife or husband.

I am back in Hanoi for the night, next stop is Koh Samet for 5 days on the beach to get my last bit of sun before coming home. Asia has been brill but I am looking forward to getting out of the humidity and enjoying a nice British winter.....although I will miss being addressed as a lady!

This is Ellen Draper, in Hanoi signing out for the final time!
Looking forward to seeing you all soon,

Love 'n' kisses
Ellen

P.S. Sorry about lack of photos for Asia, they are all on Facebook