Woke up this morning to 4ft clean waves, wind has gone! Some of the sets coming through got a bit scary when you get stuck in side and worked about 10-15 waves in a row. Hopefully going to go to the board shop today and get myself a second hand short board. Fed up of using heavy cumbersome NSPs. I made it to the board shop after lunch - there must have been about 10/12 used short boards in there but all with a very similar shape. I got an absolute steal and g...

Woke up as planned early this morning to free surf with some of the other academy guys. It was about 2-3ft and really stormy cross shore so didn't stay out long. Probably surfed about 2 hours 8:30-10:30 then just sunbathed before lunch. Surfed on our lesson this afternoon at 1:30 which was good for all of about half an hour before the wind went cross shore and blew so hard it got difficult to paddle for waves. Just chilling in the hammocks again now waiting fo...

6am wake up again this morning to surf at 7, it was barely worth getting out of bed. So bloody windy at cross/onshore it's just ruining the waves. If the wind had died it could have been a nice 3-4ft but it's just horribly stormy. At the end of the session Dave saw some sort of wildlife about 8ft long breach the water just out the back of the lineup so looks like we were surfing with some sort of shark or maybe a Tuna or something. Fortunately we were just gettin...

Woke up at 7am this morning to very very windy conditions, and having not got to sleep till 1am last night I didn't fancy the surf, had breakfast and slept through till lunch. Apparently I didn't miss out on all that much, and it's good to have a day out the water to let all the cuts have a chance to heal. Been putting antiseptic cream on quite a big graze on my ankle, apparently you have to watch for infection, especially after a lot of rain when the creek washe...

There isn't much going on day by day around here at the moment. One of my 2 room mates has gone, so it's just Dave (surname 'Nuttal') and I in here now, which is Awsome. Everywhere else people are moaning about it being busy and sleep being difficult, but Dave and I have it really easy.I was sat having a beer with him yesterday and it turns out back home he was a dental technician specialising in Implants and Implant retained dentures... Small world. Anyway it ...