What a morning!! I got up at 7am and the swell did not disappoint! Despite my back being pretty sore I went for a 3 hour surf, and had what was one of the best sessions of my life. When we first went out it was about 4ft and clean, and the longer we were out the better it got. After about an hour it had increased to about 6ft and was just barreling wave after wave on the same peak. I watched Lenny almost get a 6ft barrel which was craaaazy, wish I had a camera! ...

Well today has been a...new...experience that's for sure! I got up at 4:30am with Lenny to watch the Real Madrid V B.Munich Champions League semi final. We decided to make a run of it, so ended up knocking back a 6 pack of beers and 2 goon's each in the process. Unsurprisingly we were pretty merry after drinking on an empty stomach, so we're having a great time! Real lost 2-1 and we went for breakfast and coffee at 7am. Both still feeling rather drunk we went ou...

Our lesson was meant to be at 9:30am today so I got up and had breakfast etc, to find the surf was so small it was actually called off. While the others watched a surf movie I managed to join in on another lesson, which went really well and I enjoyed. After the torrential rain, the sea went crystal clear yesterday to the same colour as Porthcawl over night. It's absolutely disgusting - all the sediment and debris has been washed out the creek, so we are having t...

Almost forgot to blog - I did some washing for the first time last week! Everything still seems to fit and is pretty clean so that's a big success. Also, Wilmott bought and iPhone and has got WhatsApp which is SWEET, so I can actually talk to him properly now. Must admit, I have missed the guy. (if this second blog from the same day has deleted the 1st one then that's really really annoying. I can't tell from using this App.).

Despite the late night last night and a rubbish sleep I got up at half 8 for breakfast. Everyone had been getting bored of bumming around during the days and I wanted to surf my own board again so a group of us went to check Mulawarra. To our surprise it was about 1.5-2ft and super glassy, plus it was breaking really well. I had a really fun session despite feeling a bit out of sync. We surfed up until lunch time and then after just sat around playing 's***head'...