We needed the rest last night & woke up feeling pretty refreshed. After a simple breakfast at the hotel we stepped out into the grey skied day, but at least it wasn't freezing cold. We made our way up the hill to the yellow fortress which gave us sweeping views out over the beauty of the city & countryside. What really caught our attention though was the mass gravestones at a lot of the green areas of the city & all over the hillside. Very sad & made us quite emotional. We walked around the edges of the fortress but it was fenced off, looking like it had taken artillery & gun fire during the war. We headed back into the city & had an explore of their small shopping centre. Then back up to the old town for a lovely cheap feed at a local restaurant where all the Sarajevians eat. After this we headed back to the hotel, grabbed our packs & caught a cab to the bus station. It was an average bus that we boarded but much the same as all the others we have used in the east. This is definately where the west sends their buses to die. As we headed out of the outskirts towards Mostar we saw an increase in the amount of bullet marks on the buildings. Probably where a lot of the heavier fighting happened. The drive to Mostar was spectacular, they really do have amazing landscapes here. We travelled along proper roads, the best for about a month which was a nice surprise. We drove through picturesque mountains, lush green forests & had a beautiful clear stream running beside us. The villages & towns we went through were just as lovely. When we went through the town of Konjic we hit the bluest river. This in turn ran into a blue lake after a while. It was the sort of blue we had only experienced in Switzerland. Actually the scenery is like a bit poorer, slightly dirtier version of Switzerland. The Swiss of the east maybe? The eastern European people are a bit more trashy than the west. That's trashy as in they drop lots of litter. In fact most of Europe is like that, except maybe Swiss & Nordic countries. But that is not what Aussies are like. Either we are proud of our country or maybe it's just ingrained in our psyche from an early age, or maybe it's a bit of both. I had thought Bosnia was pretty clean but as we drove along I noticed quite a bit of litter in the water & on the roadside. Not on the level of those dirty Serbs but still pretty bad. So we arrived in Mostar & made our way to the hotel. It's not great but it will do the job for the 2 nights. We had a bit of a rest before heading out to a fantastic dinner beside the river. Afterwards we walked over the famous Stari Most bridge & through the old town before heading back to the hotel as the rain started to fall. Tomorrow we have nice weather so will be able to explore what looks like a beautiful town.