Hey all,

So it has been an incredibly busy weekend but perhaps the best weekend of the whole trip! On Friday morning we were picked up by our guide Freddie and the assistant guide, Franklin, for our 2 and a half day Lares trek. Half the group went to do the official INca TRail which is longer and passes losts of Incan ruins (but must be booked ages in advance) and the rest of us went to do the Lares trek which is less touristy and reaches higher altitudes and gives you a chance to meet some local people along the way.

Those of you who know me well know that I enjoy a good walk and don't even mind a night under canvas as long as it's not too cold but this was well out of my comfort zone! The trek was brutal, particularly the second day where we walked a mountain pass that reached 4600 metres. At this height fitness does not really matter, the lack of oxygen is going to make you pant like you have just run for the bus even though you are moving ata snail's pace. There were two people on our trek though who still moved with impressive speed, two lovely Swiss lads who are very active and are now simply nicknamed 'Swiss Team' for their heroic efforts. The highest pass of 4600 metres should take the average hiker about 3 hours, one of the Swiss boys did it in 1 hour 5 minutes! Show off! (I did it in just over 2 hours but with the tour guide coaching me through the last 50 metres - "Don't look up Catherine, it'll put you off, just look at your feet. Baby steps, baby steps. Stop talking!" - would not have made it without him!)

Still, despite a few moments when I thought they were going to have to load me onto a donkey and let it carry me down the mountain, it was completely worth it. The views were spectacular and it created a real sense of camaraderie. The trek is really well organised and we had prters who loaded up donkeys and llamas with our belongings and set up camp for us each night. Also, each night as we settled in for the evening a couple of local Peruvian children would appear as if from nowhere (the nearest village must have been 2 hours walk away at least), they would unwrap the bundles they were carrying and set out a drinks stall! Seriously, at 4000 metres, we could buy a bottle of local beer to celebrate surviving another day of walking. It certainly helped to stave off the cold at night!

On Sunday we had a big linch to end our trek with a lamb that we had bought fron a local farmer on our way down the mountain (don't worry the farmer's wife killed if for us) and then headed off for Aguas Calientes where we would catch the bus to MAchu Picchu the next day. Speaking of the lamb, we almost didn't get it. In the highlands they still believe in the Pacha Mama (mother earth) and give offerings to the mountains. At the exact moment that the lamb's throat was slit there was a massive roll of thunder and a hailstorm started. The famer's wife felt that the mountain gods were displeased with her killing the lamb and nearly refused to sell it to us. Our guide managed to talk her round but then we had a 3 hour walk in the rain and hail - fun!

OK, so I have babbled on quite long enough but I just want to mention Machu Picchu. We went there yesterday morning and it really is as awesome as everyone says it is. The mountains that surround the city - Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu - are majestic as they watch over the ruins of the city and it is partcularly special at the moment as they are celebrating 100 years since Hiram Bingham discovered the ruins. I am sure I will bore you all with pictures and fascinating facts when I get home but it really was an incredible experience.

So, just over a week to go - Puno, Lake Titicaca and the La Paz - the time is flying by but I cannot wait to catch up with you all properly. Thanks for all the messages, C x