Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
So the best part of staying at BSI is that we had endless hiking opportunities directly from our doorstep. We knew we were on the right track on the way there, when we finally saw Cotapaxi emerge from the clouds (kind of like Seattle, it is amazing when the "mountain is out"). The first night I hiked up to the ridge (about 800 feet up, they call it the stairmaster) for beautiful views. Unfortunately I forgot that we were near the Cloud Forest and as the clouds rolled in I lost my way a bit, but ended up following a sheep herder and his flock down off the ridge and through his fields to reconnect with the actual trail.
The next day, Zoe & Marisa & Mary rode horses, while I hiked, the two hours up to the cheese "factory," a small building where they make 4 types of fresh, swiss-style cheeses. Hiking here is on the roads, but they are all dirt and only have a car go by on them every hour or two, so it is more like a fire road hike in the states with much better views and more farm animal sitings. Then our guide led us into the Cloud Forest and showed us all the medicinal plants that grow there before our 2 plus hour return loop. Not only was the hiking great, but the girls said that the horses offered extra thrills as they liked to walk right on the edge of the road, overlooking very steep cliffs in many places.
For our second full day there, we (east coast and Cayman Island friends) piled into a pick up truck, with the kids and two brave adults in back for the dusty 1 hour drive to Quilotoa Crater - a beautiful emerald green lake that is set in the old volcano crater (think Crater Lake in Oregon). We loved the 1,000+ foot descent down with great views along the way, but the one hour plus trek back up was really challenging for the kids and adults alike. It is one of the steepest hikes that I've ever done, especially as the trail is sand in many spots so you slide 1 step down for every 2 steps you take.
Then a few crazy souls (me and the Cayman family except for 9 year old Amelia who returned to BSI with Zoe and others) decided to hike home from the nearby village of Guaymas. It wasn't far (7 km) but involved descending to the bottom of the canyon floor and then back up again - a beautiful trek but we were definitely glad to reach the town of Chugchilan and lovely BSI again - where i had the best outdoor shower and beer ever.
On our last day of hiking, Zoe and I set off on our own on a supposedly easy hike to the tiny town (6 houses) of Itualo down by the river Sigui and then a loop back to town. Unfortunatley we turned downward too soon as there are trails everywhere leading to people's farms, and ended up at a creek that we thought was the river in the dry season. When we couldn't find the path, I tried to follow the "river," and then this crazy trail upwards that really had us at edge of cliffs and pretty nervous - not seeing a way to go forward and not excited about trying to climb back down. Luckily we heard someone yelling hello from across the river canyon - a bit too far to see at first, but then we found him and understood him to say that it was too dangerous and we needed to come back down and recross the creek toward him. It took us about 45 minutes to get there and then when we explained where we were trying to go, he led us for another 45 minutes to Itualo, cutting a path with his machete as needed. His 5 year old little brother followed nimbly behind him while we panted to keep up.
Had a lovely picnic in front of church in town and shared gum and sweets with the brothers and their siblings, so relieved to be "found" again. Tough hike back up to canyon rim and town - really steep ascent again but beautiful views along the way. Talked about how it was the path that the kids take up and down to school each day and how different and physically demanding their lives are in contrast to ours. As we were discussing this, a 60 or 70 year old Andean woman hiked nimbly past us, driving the point home. Must admit we were both very relieved to see the road to town and our "home" again - and am grateful that Zoe is still willing to hike with me despite my navigational missteps. When we returned, the owners said that folks usually get lost on the route home, rather than on route there as we did, and congratulated us on finding new paths to explore.
As we rode bus out of town on Friday, the major mountains visible from this area - the Illinivas - were finally visible, a fitting end to our mountain explorations. Next stop is Banos for some thermal hot springs and adreline activities for Zoe.
- comments
Nancy Fastenau Amazing that you are so brave, well not really amazing but exciting I can tell. Thanks for sharing.
Sue Sigler I've been on some navigational missteps! You're daughter is a troopeer, and I'm so excited to hear about your adventures off the beaten path (maybe literally?). Can't wait to see you both in Peru.
Holly Kernan Great to share your adventures. Wish we could be there in person!