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We went from Banos to Riobamba with Zoe still not feeling 100%, but had great time visiting the Chimborazo mountain and vicuna reserve anyway. Chimborazo is the highest volcano/mountain in Ecuador and we drove up to the first refuge at 4,800 meters with our guide. Then Z stayed warm in the shelter, while I had the longest 30 minute hike ever to get 200 meters higher to 5,000 meter refuge (16,500 feet, highest I've been I think). It was freezing and hailing with wind against me the whole way up and I felt like I'd never make it - but they stamp your passport at the top with the height on it, so my goal-oriented self was determined to finish. I felt better when the 19 year old who came up a bit after me said how fast I was and that I must be in great shape as her mother (same age as me) had stayed at first shelter. Then 15 minutes after we got back down, sun came out, hail stopped, and it was lovely again! Next was supposed to be a 15K bike ride on dirt roads on the mountain but the wind was too strong - blowing our bikes over - so we went to next segment for 35K through valleys and farms and towns. Zoe opted to sleep in support vehicle after fighting wind for 10 minutes, but I had great ride, mostly downhill and easy, except when wind prevailed, through beautiful countryside with more vicunas and sheep and donkeys than cars. Ended day with inedible chinese food so subsituted pringles and oreos for real food (irony of traveling is that we'd never eat these at home, but they become safe occasional comfort choices on the roard) and went to bed.
Happily, Zoe returned to full health and her old stuff by the time we finished our 6 hour bus ride to Cuenca, a colonial city that feels more European than South American. She had her first real meal in days - spaghetti with meatballs - and was really happy. Food in Cuenca was much better than most of Ecuador and we enjoyed tastes of home (chicken salad on croissant, avocado with lime, and spinch sauteed in olive oil and garlic made by woman who had lived in Mountain View, CA the last 15 years and had retired to Ecuador only 2 months ago) as well as more continental fare (filet in bacon mushroom sauce - made in cast iron skillet that was brought to table with french bread to soak up sauce - too rich to finish but delicious) - can you tell we were a little over yucca, rice, potatoes, and grilled chicken?
Cuenca is also a great cultural center so we visited many museums - Zoe liked the modern art one best; walked around to admire the architecture; and took in an evening cabaret/magic show. Zoe even volunteered to assist the magician and went on stage and followed his directions, no matter how silly, in Spanish along with another local kid her age. The club was usually for more adult shows - so there were some odd s & m type paraphenalia displayed around the theater - sort of heavy meatl/goth with a sexual edge - so it was quite a cross cultural experience for both of us, but one of the benefits of travel is broadened horizons even if it is in less expected ways.
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