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Our last stop in Ecuador was out on the coast in Puerto Lopez. Long day of travel to get there from Cuenca - with hurried change in Guayquil bus terminal that felt like Grand Central Station but with having to translate it all in Spanish - and out to the "route of the sun." As it is the winter time at the coast, it was more route of the fog, but Puerto Lopez is a nice fishing village with a horseshoe shaped bay with boats coming in with fresh catch every day. We stayed at a place just outside town - chosen for quiet and swimming pool for Z - that was deserted when we arrived (felt like a tropical version of the Shining) but got better the second day.
Puerto Lopez is where you catch the boats to Isla de la Plata (the poor man's Galapagos), and we were lucky to arrive during whale watching season. On the hour long each way boat ride we saw many humpbacks including a number that jumped completely out of the water before gracefully arcing back with their beautiful tails completing the cycle - like large mammal water ballet. We did the long hike on the island - with the naturalist and some Ecuadorians who clearly weren't used to going more than a couple of miles or climbing hills - and saw blue-footed boobies, nazcas and frigates who puff out bright red chests during their mating rituals. It was also mating season on the island so we saw a number of bird couples as well as those already tending for their eggs. Unfortunately the camera died midway through this so not many pictures to share but great memories.
Had nice dinner in town, bought beach cover-ups, and returned to hotel for more swimming (Zoe) and conversation with helfpul guides (me). Scored ride to nearest big bus station (saving 2 hours) from guide in morning - town is called Jipijapa and pronounced Hippy Hapa - which was great given the bus/travel odyssey to come...
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Marian Yay for the whales!