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So, in brief, we are back in Argentina, as far down as El Calafate this time, and are braving the wilderness that is Torres Del Paine as of tomorrow... the bit that isn´t burning obviously. (If you haven´t heard this story, a huge section of the place was on fire because a tourist set fire to his toilet paper. In the height of summer. Idiot.) We are dead excited but a little nervous as it´s 3 days of trekking and carrying our own stuff, (most of which will be left at a hostel, but still, tents, sleeping bags, food and clothes suitable for sudden downpours are heavy!) We have a vision of going all ´Into the Wild´ but I think this will be difficult, we have had to spend 2 extra days in this dead-end place as all the daily buses to TDP were full!
What else? Ahhh, the glacier, Perito Moreno, we saw it yesterday. AMAZING. It just looked like the black mountains had been wrapped in a blanket of ice. The ice was also nearer to blue than white... it was beautiful. We just stood looking at it for nearly 2 hours. As it was on ´Wonders of the Universe´ we were convinced we would see a huge chunk of ice fall from it, we didn´t. We saw little bits though and the sound was so strange, like an echo, but really loud for such small pieces.
The down side to this? The token crazy trip lady... you know the type, travelling clothes adorned (a wide brimmed hat with a neck guard), a camera that might as well be an extra limb, a lack of awareness of anyone else. Well, she was sat next to me on the coach. Refused to let Mat sit there. AND, as I was in the window seat, kept leaning across me to take photos through the window. She took at least 100 of a lake we passed. 100! With a really decrepit looking compact that made a very loud snapping noise with every shot. Her elbow grazed various parts of my body too many times to count, she did not apologise once. She also ate a very smelly sandwich, at 8.30 am, and kept breathing at on me. My oh my, she´s lucky it was not my Mum sat next to her is all I can say! She struck again when on the boat to get close to the glacier nearly knocking over others to get her photos, hogging a side spot that everyone else had queued for (best place for a full shot early on)
Then, there is the fact we are staying in a hostel that is all of one nationality that we are not. Of no importance you may think, turns out it is. They don´t speak to us! This place is packed, they all cook together, play cards, sing songs I love around a guitar but refuse to even look at us most of the time. Awkward in the kitchen when we are trying to get a pan on! Even more awkward when I had to edge past a few this morning, in the bathroom, who were waxing each others arms, faces and legs... comparing hair lengths I tell you!
Ummm, what else of consequence? Oh, we stayed with the wonderful Lolo and Augustina (friends we met on Salt Flat tour in Sept.) for 4 nights in Mar Del Plata. Much needed luxury, flat immaculate, private beach to hang out on and a whole load of Sealions goofing about near the docks. Really relaxing (maybe that´s why I resent being back in a dorm!)
A highlight was us cooking them a roast as means of thanking them. THEY HAD NEVER EATEN A ROAST OR HEARD OF GRAVY! Turns out they loved it, painstakingly listened to our instructions on how to make gravy and took loads of photos to immortalise the moment.What Lucky Ducks we are.
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