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¡Hola Chicos! (I´m never going to get bored of saying this and yet, dum, dum, dum... we leave South America on 10 Feb, it´s so close, maybe I should stop using these phrases now? I feel a little ache in my heart, the bit that doesn´t miss good customer service that is, at the thought of leaving this simply insanely wonderful place.)
We are really living the dream, rubbish phrase I apologise, here in Patagonia (I really wish I hadn´t thought this was its own country before we arrived without crossing a border. Idiot.) It´s rugged, it´s unpredictable (there is ash hiding the horizon as I type from the volcano that was erupting weeks ago!) it´s liberating to walk for hours without a mobile phone (also frightening that I nearly called it a ´cell´ phone because of all the yanks we are exposed to!) and to know there are hours and hours and hours you could still walk for. Hmmm, I am being all abstract. I feel so excited today, my words are just pouring out. Sorry. I will try to make sense. So, we spent 5 days trekking in Torres Del Paine, if you dropped the ´E´ from the Paine it would be more accurate. IT WAS SO HARD. I AM SO UNFIT. However, it was probably one of the coolest things we have done here. Maybe because it is so out of our normal routine. 3 of the days consisted of trekking with our backpacks (tent, stove, sleeping bags and food inside) one of those being 13 bloody k. I tell you, it felt like a pilgrimage, where you suffer to find enlightenment. I assure you though, when you crest the mountain and see nothing but glacial water silver grey lakes, black mountains with blankets of snow wrapping them and wild horses, you know it was all worth it. I won´t babble on about the virtues of trekking, but I found there were many. I took the time to see it all, it felt like my eyelids had been peeled back! I am still particularly struck by the comedy of seeing bright orange bumble bees. (I also love Mat a teensy bit more, didn´t know that was possible, as my bag kept getting mysteriously lighter and his getting heavier despite depleting food stocks, meaning my neck and shoulders only really hurt me after 1 of the 3 bag carrying days)
A highlight was getting up to the Torres peaks for sunrise. It was a tough slog uphill for an hour in the freezing cold at 5am, with the stone path slipping under our feet, but as the sun hit the rock and illuminated it in a violent orange and a rainbow spread out across the other unlit rock everyone just stood in silent appreciation. You can see the pic and marvel yourselves.
We were lucky enough to meet some lovely people who we camped and walked all of it with, a couple(one Aussie, one Brit), an Aussie girl and an American man called Dennis. Dennis rocked. He is on a 2 month holiday here while his wife and 2 children, of 6 and 7, are at home... this should automatically repel old Feminist here but he talks so highly of his wife and kids that it didn´t have that affect. Another plus of travelling, you open up to other people´s ways because you have time to discuss them and understand them.
Dennis has also given us the best hostel tip off so far. ´The Penthouse in Bariloche. The only place to stay´. YES Dennis, you legend. We made it here today, and it is what it says on the tin. The top floor of a 10 storey building. Styled like a cabin, all wood furnishings, easy chairs, lots of cushions, a view of the lake and mountain range from each bedroom and even one of the loos, an awesome balcony which I read on all afternoon. AHHH BLISS.
We go horseriding for 3 hours tomorrow, on a ranch with the Gauchos (Cowboys) who strangely wear large berets. Very excited, as I have wanted to do this since we got here but never managed to find the time. I hope I get my horse to trot as I don´t like the idea of booting it to ´gee it up´ and can see me sat aloft a stubborn one not moving!
Anyway, we are in bad connection land and will be hiking again soon and then travelling vast distances to get to Santiago before flying to NZ (where we have finally secured a campervan rental, which is soooooo exciting my head might burst for thoughts of us parked in the middle of nowhere looking at the stars!) so, I may not email for a bit. But, I still think of you all and hope you are happy.
Lots of love and happiness,
Kelly (and Mat in spirit as he is cooking dinner)
p.s. I had a minor chilli in eye drama typing this as I had actually helped Mat with prepping tea. I have learnt my lesson and will not be so silly again!
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