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We had a full day's tour of the highlights of Budapest with Lajos' wife, Suzanne, and Tomacz, one of our wonderful drivers during the past three weeks. A bit cooler today, breezy but sunny, so more comfortable as we spent two hours walking around the Castle District of Buda, dominated by the Royal Palace, mostly dating from the mid-18th century. This area sits high above the rest of the city; Buda is the hilly side of the river, Pest is on a flat plain. How there can be such an abrupt difference on either side of a river is puzzling. Suzanne explained much of the complicated history of Hungary; so much occupation, problems with succession of monarchs, some coming from other parts of Europe, as well as trying to describe the terrible destruction and deprivation after WWII. Considered one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, it is hard to imagine the extent of restoration efforts that had to be undertaken. Today it is clean with well painted stucco, ornate grill work and sculptures on magnificent buildings. All the bridges over the Danube were destroyed by the Germans to prevent the Russian Army from moving west; today they stand proudly, beautifully lit up at night. Remarkably there was significant reconstruction under the Communists.
The beautiful Matthias Church shines brilliant white from its recently cleaned limestone facade, contrasted in the sun with its multi-colored roof of glazed ceramic Zsolnay tiles.
The oldest bridge, the Chain Bridge, was first built in 1849. We cross it to go onto the Pest side. The two cities were officially united in 1872. Broad boulevards and circular plazas along Andrassy Avenue are reminiscent of the Champs Elysees. The absence of skyscrapers contributes to the elegance and beauty of the city. We wander through Heroes' Square with its two art museums and statues of important Hungarians, the City Park with side-by-side examples of architectural styles (Gothic, Baroque, Romanesque, and Renaissance). Lunch is outside near the steps of St. Stephen's Basilica. Stepping inside, an organ recital fills the vaults of the gold-leaf interior. The organ has 6000 pipes providing a deep, beautiful sound. The Basilica honors Stephen, the first king of Hungary (975-1038) and has his enshrined severed right hand, a gruesome thing to have on display.
Through Liberty Square honoring the 500-600K Hungarian Jewish victims of the Holocaust, and a memorial to the 1956 uprising against the Soviets. Our last stop was a tour of the Parliament Building, built 1885-1904, an ornate landmark along the Danube with its share of gold leaf and colorfully painted interior as well. Although no monarch today, the Royal Crown is exhibited in a beautiful rotunda guarded by sword yielding officers, whose duty changed while we were there. The newly elected Parliament session starts tomorrow; protests were planned for today and tomorrow, but we saw no evidence of any protesters.
- comments
Cousin Kermit That's the true way of getting around the city. Both Buda and Pest. Great pix and wonderful narrative per your blog. You may indeed be sorry to leave, when leave you must.