Day 21 Mamallapuram south of chennai 2 May

Overnight train from Mysore to Chennai gets us in at 7.30 on schedule. We spend an interesting evening talking to an Indian newly wed couple from Chennai. They are intelligent and interesting people and clearly well off with the best designer luggage labels. They have been in the mountains enjoying a 4 day honeymoon. They share the story of their wedding and the 7 day celebration that leads to the big day. He is 30 and she is 26 and they are clearly happy even though its an arranged marriage, as is usually the case with Hindu's. They seem very relaxed with the system that starts with the grooms father approaching the bride's father, if they agree terms including dowry, the date is set and usually happens within 3 to 6 months later. They can meet and talk during this time so can get to know each other. Even this couple seemed resigned to the marriage going ahead and them having little say in the selection.

The family ties are very strong, once married the couple lives with the grooms family, parents other siblings and often grandparents too. One imagines that this would more easily suit poorer people but even this clearly wealthy couple seem quite happy with the arrangement. It turns out he works for Royal Bank of Scotland in Chennai.

It's not easy sleeping on these trains but we settle down for the night and do our best to get some sleep.

On arrival in Chennai, we rejoin our bus for the 1hr trip to Mam. It's a small seaside resort town and seems quite pleasant on first impression. Nice hotel with pool and nice rooms and a blissful shower after a hot sticky night and not much sleep! Nothing organised today so enjoy a swim in the sea and the pool and catch up on some kip! Two nights here so it will be good to have a break from the travelling. As i sit here in an internet cafe, the usual noise of traffic and people goes on outside and even at 7.20 pm it's still very hot; estimated at around 35 deg!