Hey. So im in Kolkata, safe by no stretch of the imagination sound! This place is mental! Flights were fine, met some really nice people on both who were also travelling around, will hopefully catch up with them at some point. Fist flight was delayed which meant i didnt have to wait in dubai long, only about 20 mins in the departure lounge, at whih point i realise a) do not travel as a single, very white woman from DUBAI to INDIA!!! and b) Do not travel as a single, very white woman from DUBAI to INDIA in a v neck top!!!!!! I felt half like a celeb and half like id been stuck in th middle of greedy hungry dogs. Also noticed there were about 10 other female on the flight in total and none were on there own. Anyway that was when i strategically made freinds with some other people...safety in numbers people!! No, it wasnt that bad but other westerners do tend to help you other when they can see your getting hasselled.

Got to kolkata and as soon as you step outside the aiport its crazy. Soooo many people and soooo hot. We got a taxi into the centre of th city whic is about 20km, but cost us 500 rupees. about six quid. were staying in sudder street which is where most backpackers head to...which also means beggers are never far and man do they tug at your heart strings, expecially the kids. I didnt expect it to be so open. People literally live on the streets, but not as in curled up with a sleeping bag and a dog, but with babies and children lyning naked on the streets, and im not over exaggerating. Around most corners there are big flountains and water pumps which look fresh and clean in comparison to where they are living, that they wash in.

The streets are very crowded and crossing the road is mission impossible here, no one stops ever, they think that if they let you know their coming it makes it your fault if they hit you! The noise is constant, literally never stops. At night you can here just a much horn blowing, indian music and street kids as in the day. But i kinda like that. Its very alive, doesnt ever stop, for nothing or no one!

The first palce we stayed in was basic and kinda clean until we found cockroaches under the matress...as we were leaving! now were staying in a nicer room with air con and a shower rather than a bucket, with some other travellers we meet on sudder street.

The food is fine, western food is widely avaliable. We are trying to stick to more traditional food though. Ive also realised what i think is 'not spicy' is not th same by there standards and have been sucking ice since lunch! Maybe when i get back ill manage a tikka masala without pain!

We went to a market this morning and i got a beautiful ring...i know iknow...ive only been here 2 days but i dont care it was pretty!! The market was bizare. The food bit was shocking...and from all the flies hovering about i would not be suprised if i swallowed a few as i starred, jaw dropped at the madness! The whole way around we were followed by 3 or 4 richshaw men who insit on showing you around and holding your shopping...you can say no as much as you want but they aint gonna listen!!! we ended up running around trying to hide in shops and behinds sari stands..which worked for a while. It all gets a bit much though, you are being pestered the whole time. We escaped to a classy shopping mall..if only for the air con! I think they knew we were not goning to have any suits made by the state of us in bikinis and already muddy skirts...well thats for jono anyways. Weve found out my clothes actually ft him. Now julie i dont want you to worry, your son isnt going lady boy on us or anything but he does like my linen trousers!

We tried to get our bearings a lil more today and got in a taxi thinking the driver knew where royd street was (because he said yes!!) but ended up going all over the place on a journey that took well over a hour and then finding out when on the way back with another driver it was 2 mins from where we started! muppet!...and he tried to charge us for the full time and told jon not to anger him! cheeky git!

So weve just had a lush lunch which consitsed of lots of things i cant spell but was gorgeous. Last night we eat at a really random place, that served on bamboo leaves. Tonight were going out for dins with emily and richard a couple staying in are new hostel who we stayed up late with playing cards and drinking beer..mmmm. Were going to a big club as well called tantra to dance off all that curry.

Hope you are all well. Han thanks for my bracelet its very pretty and fitting for india. Dad i have changed the network on my phone to airtel and still no joy!!tried to buy an indian sim but they wont do it without a passport photo. Anyways more discovering to do...we will be around here for the next few days then head up to varanasi on a sleeper train.

Love to you all, take care, miss you

Char