Pro-prolog: Jan 17, 2010, Sunday

I wrote the following update to my Appalachian Trail (AT) adventures last July on paper from my trail journal notes while Stacia and family were here visiting. The grand kids were taking naps and Stacia was freelance editing a manuscript for UGA or UT (Univ. of Texas, not Tennessee for SEC folks), on the PC. As the little ones awoke from their naps, I put the update with a copy of Backpacker on my desk, and played with Sophia and Sam. I put a few other things on the "update" stack in the following days, and moved the stack a time or two, maybe a dozen. Time moved from weeks to months. I started getting ready to get back on the AT this spring and realized the "update" was still not updated. I will spend a few weeks on the AT before going to Austin for the birth of our third grandchild in early May. The new arrival will be another boy to go with the girl and boy they have.

Update Prolog(July, 2009)

Over two months have passed since I got off the AT. I regret this update took so long, you will understand at the conclusion of this entry.

Back on the AT

At the beach a couple of weeks ago Stacia talked of bringing the grand kids, Sophia 2 ½ and Sam 1 ½ to Georgia to spend about three weeks in July. Something to look forward to and doing the AT in sections has many advantages. So I planned to pick up the AT where I left off at Woody Gap and go all the way thru Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP), maybe to Hot Springs, NC, by the end of June. I could still be home when Stacia, Josh and the grand kids arrived in early July. Originally when I returned from the beach, I planned to thru hike the AT to Maine.

Apr 26, 2009, SundayDay 1 of restartWoody Gap to Wood's Hole Shelter

Mary drove me (trail name "Carver") up to Woody Gap this beautiful Sunday morning. While I was getting my gear and backpack ready, Mary pointed out a notice on the bulletin board the trail was closed to overnight camping between Neal's Gap and Tesnatee Gap due to black bears getting backpacks and food bags. I had planned to camp right in the middle of that area on my second night, oh well, plans change. We took a few pix and I was on the trail about 09:40. This was a great day of sunshine, breeze and lots of wildflowers along the trail. Bushes and hardwoods had not started to leaf this high in the mountains, so I had lots of views of mountains and valleys. About the best day on the trail, took breaks and had lunch of Pop Tarts and homemade jerky. View from Big Cedar Mtn. was great. I stopped to enjoy several good views from Burnett Field Mtn. and Turkey Stamp Mtn.

I arrived at Wood's Hole Shelter about 14:35 (2:35 pm). I enjoyed the day but was ready to stop. Bugs are still bad, some bring blood with bites. Because of the closed camping area tomorrow I decide to sleep in the shelter and not have to pack my tent to get started. Shelter sleeps seven on one level, about twelve hikers were here. Five college guys from NC (one planned to thru hike, the others going back to NC) and I spread our sleeping bags in the shelter, the other hikers tented. Three guys had their tents close to shelter, their trail names, "Mountain Dog" from FL, "Peanut Butter" from AL, and "Melski" from NJ (actually he had a tarp over a rope). A young couple and others stayed on the far side of food bag cables (cables lift food bags 10-12 feet off ground away from bears and other critters). The weather was perfect all night.

Apr 27, 2009, MondayDay 2Wood's Hole Shelter to Hogpin Gap

I didn't get much sleep last night as I was afraid might happen. The mice activity was like a three ring circus. Most of the night little feet scurrying all around with some of the kids throwing water bottles, boots and verbal abuses at the quick critters as they scampered to and fro. In the morning I had no equipment damage from little mice teeth, so I was happy. The hikers from FL, AL, and NJ left about 07:00, I was on the trail about 07:30 while the rest of the shelter area still slept.

Today was cloudy and cool, about 58-60, very comfortable for backpacking. I took a break at Neal's Gap at the Walasi-Yi Center, then up and over Levelland Mtn. (bad humor in that name). I took short breaks and lunch for the long day thru "closed to camping area". Talked to lots of day and section backpackers on the trail. I hope the pix I have been taking turn out good. I feel better about doing the AT in sections after hearing section backpackers tell their stories. This part of the AT has few "Thru Hikers", most are many miles on up the trail this time of year.

There are several really nice camping areas with great views in the closed area between Wolf Laurel Top and Cowrock Mtn. I did see some bear scat along the trail in the closed area but no bears. When I reached the top of Wildcat Mtn. I considered going to Whitley Gap Shelter, but it was 1.2 miles down a side trail, then 1.2 miles back to the AT. I had gotten word passed between backpackers that a "ridgerunner" had said that water and camping were good at Hogpin Gap only a ½ mile further on the AT. I was off to Hogpin Gap. Ridgerunners are ATC (Appalachian Trail Conservancy) employees and volunteers who oversee the trail.

The ascent up Wildcat Mtn. was only 500ft. high but was covered in just ¾ mile. Like some of the other steep mountains I climbed, I had to constantly stop to catch my breath and let my heart rate slow down. The loud heart beat in my ears began to concern me.

I arrived at Hogpin Gap about 16:30 and found a tent site that was somewhat level. I used my pump to filter water from the stream to refill two water bottles and camp supply bottle that holds about three qt but collapses flat when not filled to pack easy. I boiled some water to fix supper, took off boots and put on crocs for camp comfort. The sun had fallen far down the other side of the mountains to the west and light was fading fast. I was enjoying an after supper cup of hot chocolate when another backpacker came into the camp area. I walked over and talked as he set up his tent about 30 yards from mine. He said he was Dan from CO, and it had been a tough day for him due to the closed area. He said he planned to sleep late the next morning, a hint to not wake him as I left camp. As darkness fell at only about 20:30, I crawled into my tent. I undressed but the temperature was so comfortable I started the night on top of my sleeping bag. As the night passed and the temp got cooler, I moved inside my bag but never zipped it all the way closed.

I never asked others, but I don't believe I am the only one that listens to the night sounds when I wake to turn during the night, would I know a bear if I heard one?

Apr 28, 2009, TuesdayDay 3Hogpin Gap to Poplar Stamp Gap

I had a good night of sleep, no mice! The tent was good and roomy. It weighs over twice as much as the ultra-light tent, but is more secure and comfortable. Got up about 06:30, had Pop Tarts, jerky, and Tang for breakfast. I packed my camp, topped off water bottles and got on the trail about 08:15. True to his word, Dan was sleeping in.

The day was good, weather great, temp in the mid to low 50's at night and upper 60's in the day with mostly sunny sky. All the streams and water flows had plenty of water. The regular ups and downs of the trail caused me no problems, just the longer bigger mountains. I was surprised that Sheep Rock Top gave me such shortness of breath on the climb to the top. I expected to be getting over that problem by now. The first two days on Blood, Levelland, Cowrock and Wildcat Mtn. I considered the shortness of breath and loud heart beat thump in my ears to be normal.

A little after lunch I arrived at a side trail to Low Gap Shelter. I didn't really want to stop this early, didn't care for the shelter and water supply setup, and the privy was full, so I set out on down the trail. I made it to Poplar Stamp Gap about 14:30. It was still early but there were several good tent sites. The water source was a stream about .1 of a mile down an old railroad bed. The beds are about all that is left of narrow gauge rail used when the area was logged badly in the 1920's and 1930's. Almost all the virgin forest was devastated by the logging with no thought of the future impact on the mountains.

I set up my tent, rested while snacking on my mix of GORP and lots of water. The birds were enjoying the springtime also as they sang all around me. Most of them were what Mary and I watch from the front porch or back deck, Chickadees, Rufous-sided Towhee, Titmouse, and Nuthatch. This is when I feel alone; a two edged sword, not being able to share God's splendor, but bathed in the tranquil solitude of nature.

About the time I finished supper, 17:15, Dan of CO came in and asked to tent, I said sure. He set up his tent and we went down to get water. While he fixed his supper I looked for a place to hang my food bag away from any bears in the area. I'm glad I stopped early, I needed the rest and Dan seems a nice fellow. He is hiking part of the AT, then in July going to Canada to meet a friend. As dark set in I got into my tent, undressed and was ready to fall asleep when I heard little feet scampering around the edge of my tent under the vestibule where my boots sat. I bumped the tent and the feet took off, for about 30 seconds, and then came back. After three or four times of this I moved my boots and gear inside the tent to avoid them being chewed on. The little feet left and never returned. I got a good night sleep, waking a half dozen times to turn to a comfortable position.

Apr 29, 2009, WednesdayDay 4Poplar Stamp Gap to Blue Mountain Shelter

I was up at good light, just past 06:30 maybe, and fixed my breakfast. I had finished and started packing when Dan crawled from his tent and began cooking his food.

We were about 20 yards off the AT so I was surprised when someone yelled "Carver, that you". I replied "You bet" and met "Melski" halfway. He introduced me to "Snaker". They were going to try a 15 mile day to Tray Mtn. I wished them luck and they were going again, headed north. About 15 minutes later, the college teen I met at Wood's Hole Shelter that planned to thru hike yelled "Hey Carver, see you down the trail". I yelled "Good luck" as he and his buddies kept on moving.

As Dan ate he talked about not sure if he wanted to skip the "Helen to Hiawassee" part of the trail and hitch a ride to Hiawassee. He worried about his knees and wanted to hike miles not just steep mountains.

We were on the trail a little after 08:30, no rush as we planned to stop at Blue Mtn. Shelter, only about six miles away. I always filter my water but Dan got his coming out of the side of the mountains, no treatment. He has not gotten sick yet.

I led on rolling up and down parts of the trail but Dan could climb the steep parts better so he would lead. I had to stop often to catch my breath and let my heart rate slow down. I was getting concerned, after four days I should be getting better conditioned, not the same or worse. About lunch a young fellow zooms past us, just said "Hi" and was gone.

Dan and I arrived at Blue Mtn. Shelter about 15:00, and selected our tent sites. Neither of us wanted to chance mice in the shelter. We saw the young fellow that zoomed past us now sleeping in the shelter but not unpacked. We went down the trail to the water source about 0.2 of a mile. When we got back the sleeper was gone. In the shelter journal he had written, "W. Suller, N.O., LA, nap 2:00 - 3:30, Going to Helen for supper, feet say NO! stomach says YES!"

I had a cell signal so I called Mary to pick me up in Helen tomorrow afternoon. I wanted to know why my heart rate was so rapid. The AT is to be enjoyed, not to have a medical problem while hiking.

A really nice group of hikers gathered at the shelter during the afternoon. Keith, JKVL, FL, was a minister; his hiking buddy was David, JKVL, FL, photographer for a non-profit world hunger organization, both of them early 20's. Gary, OH; "Croc", VT, also a minister; Dan, CO; Dave, JKVL, FL; and myself, "Carver", GA. "Croc" and I the older ones, others mid-age. All of these were section hikers, each year taking two weeks to two months to hike part of AT. I believe Gary and Dave said they hope to complete the AT next year.

Gary was the last to arrive and he was excited. About one half mile back down the trail, he saw a bear on the high side of the trail about 100 yards away. The bear just watch as he eased by on the trail, then Gary hurried on to the shelter.

There was a ban on open fires, so we just sat around the fire ring cooking our supper. Each in his own way food was prepared, no two exactly the same in equipment or style. The conversations thru supper and as the sun set were enjoyable, about the AT, nature, life, and theology of different writers and religions. I received verbal pats on the back for listening to my body and getting off the trail for a medical checkup. Most of them knew stories of hikers pushing too hard too far and having to be rescued. A few weeks later while waiting for a stress test, I met a fellow that had a friend die on the trail of a heart attack.

As darkness and the temperature fell, we scattered each to his own tent with David and Keith the only ones in the seven person shelter. They had plenty of room.

Apr 30, 2009, FridayDay 5Blue Mtn. Shelter to Helen

I was up about 06:30 as most of the others were getting up also, the sky growing lighter. Everyone said they slept well with the exception of Keith and David. They were not amused by all the activity of the mice during most of the night.

The group packed and started out on the AT as they got ready. Most had a goal to reach that day and miles and mountains to put behind them. Dan was still not sure if he wanted to catch a ride to Hiawassee or hike there over three big mountains, Rocky Mtn., about one thousand foot climb, Tray Mtn., one about a thousand three hundred foot climb, Kelly k*** about a thousand foot climb. He would see how his knees felt when he reached Unicoi Gap; the highway to the left toward Hiawassee and to the right went to Helen. I made coffee and said "Happy trails" to each as they left the shelter area.

I went back to the water source for sponge bath water and refill my trail bottles. I washed up and shaved, put on clean cloths and was on the trail about 08:50. Morning clouds were in the mountains with a little mist and a couple of light sprinkles. I said a pray to get to Helen before the rain started, getting a ride soaking wet would not be easy.

I arrived at Unicoi Gap at 10:25, walked across highway GA75 to the edge of a parking area. I put out my thumb, first time in many, many years, to catch a ride to Helen. It seemed strange to be on the opposite side of the road, but the parking area had room to stop, the other side did not. At 10:45 Roy Conner, a minister near Hiawassee picked me up. He said he has sixteen grand kids and picks up hikers often. I felt grateful to have met Roy and wished our visit could have been longer. He was on his way to the hospital to see one of his sons that was very ill. With a burden like that he took time to help me. We wished each other God's blessings when dropped me in Helen at 11:00. Prayer answered, no rain and sun came out for a beautiful day.

I called Mary to let her know I had made it to Helen okay. I ate a fantastic good Ruben sandwich at "Hans Restaurant" with very good service. Not sure if the sandwich was all that good or I was that tired of trail food, probably both. I relaxed walking around town, a breeze after being in the mountains, and enjoyed the many shops. Mary picked me up about 16:00.

Conclusion of second restart to thru hike the AT

I spent a couple of weeks trying to decide if I just wanted to exercise more, go to my doctor, or just accept that I was not young anymore. I would go to the doctor and I would know for sure if I just needed to exercise, exercise. The first EKG showed no problem, but because I was going back on the trail, the doctor scheduled me for a full stress test. The cardiologist said the test was not conclusive, I had a couple of blips at maximum rate, but not serious. If I were not going back on the AT he would just wait and see. He and my regular doctor talked and decided I should another stress test with radioactive fluid injected in my blood flow during the test. This test was also not conclusive, it appeared something was causing me a problem at a high treadmill speed. I was scheduled for a cardio catheterization on June 26, 2009. The idea of being able to watch a monitor showing a plastic tube in my cardio artery and dye running thru is like science fiction when I was growing up. I could lay there and see that one artery was not as large as the other two was amazing, and the doctor said I needed a stint to open that one. About ten minutes later another doctor came in, I watched something moving on the monitor, then poof, the small opening was as large as the others and he was finished. The actual procedure started at 07:00, at 08:15, I was back in my room, the wonders of modern medicine.

That I was back in a room was good, the bad side of the coin was that I could not move until 16:00 so the incision at my right groin into the main vein to the heart could heal. The next day about 10:30 I was released and told not to lift anything the first week and light duty the second week. The cardio doctor told me that going on the trail and listening to my body saved me a very serious medical emergency later. He said to heal good, exercise and get back on the trail.

I plan to complete the AT by hiking sections one or two months at a time. Stay tuned.

Carver

akaGene