Just back from Maurentania and had such a good weekend although it started fiarly bleakly on Friday night. Neither me nor Lucy wanted to go to this party at somebodys house but for the fear of being anti social we dragged ourselves up and got ready to leave. Earlier that day we had done a quick underwear wash and as we had been told hanging underwear on the line was highly inappropriate we came up with the genius, not to mention highly culturally sensitive, idea of making a clothes line in our room and drying the stuff with the fan. So we left the fan on whilst we went out for a bit so that by the time we got back wed have some dry pants to wear that evening. When we got back, there was a knock at our bedroom door and our host mother launched into a huge rant about how we were wastring a hideous amount of electricty and we should have hung them on the line. My worthy argument of how in fact we were actually being extremely considerate did not wash and she didnt speak to me for the rest of the evening. The fan is now safely back in a corner of the room, happily gathering dust once again.

Anyway the fan incident put even more of a downer on our already extremely bad moods and by the time we left the house to go to the party it was 11 and we were sure wed only stay ten minutes. But party was a pleasant surprise and stayed longer, consuming a large amount of cheap Senegalese Rosè - quality at its best.

The next day we had to get up early to leave at 9 for Mauretania and we decided wed get up at 7, have showers, pack and then leave the house at 8 so we could have a lesisurely breakfast at the patisserie before the journey. So the next morning 8 o clock arrives and we are still in bed complaining about how tired we are and how 9 o clock was a ridiculous time to leave, etc etc - lateness is NEVER our fault you understand. Päcking took about ten years and soon Maddy arrived. As Ive explained before she is very organised and really not laid back so when it got to five to nine and me and Lucy were still throwing make up at eachother and decided which clothes to take, she was having a minor panic attack. But she was proved wrong as punctuality is not always the key. We arrived dead on 9 and were able to get straight on the coach, cutting out the boredom of the wait before you can get on to it.

We arrived at the border and once there we had to cross through No Mans Land. It was a stange thought to think that for five minutes of my life I was Nowhere. I had a brief philosophical, if a little morbid, think about what would happen if I died there, which country would it be registertered in as there was no country to speak of, but after a look around and no sign of any rabid animals or other potential killers (there was a bull admittedly but it didn look in a fit state to run as it hasnt eaten for about 5 years) I concluded that this probably wouldnt be an issue for me, and I carried on to Mauretania.

Once in Mauretania and after about ten hundred ids asking for presents, we all got on a huge Jeep and made our way through the desert. We stopped off at a very uninspiring vegetable patch, though I did find a cotton plant which was cute... until some little brat stole it. Was a relief to get back on the road after that and arrive at another village where everybody was very welcoming. We chatted with the villagers and they made us tea. It was the same as Senegalese tea and there are three different strengths: 1) Bitter as Death 2) As Sweet as Life and finally 3) As Sugary as Love... We got given three and I can safely saythe dentist would now have an absolute field day. More sugar than water; but all in the name of experience. The toilet was apparantly the most rancid thing youve ever seen but I did not brave this as whenever anybody came out of it they continued to wretch for about 20 minutes afterwards.

We left the village after about 45 minutes and I was glad we had seen it. It was kind of like a commune and did look like a very lonely existance but they all seemed happy enough. The people in Mauretania, close to the border look so completemy different from the Senegalese. There skin is almost white and they have very narrow face. They are definitely not as attractive as the Senegalese, as they all look kind of washed out. Weird to see how different people can look when they live only an hour from eachother.

After the village we went through the desert which was so good. It was a really rough drive and the guy opposite me looked like he was going to vomit so I was wetting myself the whole way but it was all worth it when we arrived at the most surreal location Ive ever seen. It was this tiny nomad camp in the middle of the desert and we were surrounded by pure white sand and the sea in the distance. The nomads had prepared an amazing dinner of fish, rice andsalad, all grilled and after eating that we got our tents and sunbathed for the afternoon.

That evening we ate dinner and sat around the camp fire. I am sad to report there was in fact a hideously cringey moment where everyone was singing wonderwall with their eyes closed and swaying. I think there may even have been a few tears shed that evening. Unfortunatey I could not bring myself to join in and was pleased when the guitar was safely put away for the night.

Went for a walk in the desert before bed and it was so incredibly peaceful. It feels weird to know Ill probably never experience that again but it was so good. All I could see was a light from a boat in the very distance but you feel completely safe because its right in the middle of nowhere. Went to bed that night feel very content, even after having to use my very first proper African toilet - hole in ground style.

Next day we went to some sand dunes which were immense and I solersaulted down it; before me upstaged by someone who front flipped down - I did the big thing and clapped him but inside I was furious of course. Got a tad burnt then carried on home. Was nice to get backdespite the good weekend.

After showering etc - never seen so much sand in one shower - we went out for dinner with everyone which was so nice. Ate pizza and chatted.Went to the pattisserie (open till midnight) afterwards with a couple of them and it was really lovely to cat to them properly and they are all very funny. So it was a great finish to a great weekend.

This morning school as usual and suddenyl all the kids have no hair. Its very bizarre but all the girls have had their braids taken out and the boys have had their head shaved. Its a festival tonight but apparantly the two events are not linked. Muslim holiday tolorrow so no school - sweet relief. Therese says we wont sleep tonight as the Mosque will be so loud ut I will try and embrace this.

Getting a Boubou made this week for school, will look horrendous but am determined to integrate.

Have got to write about a festival we had at school on Friday but no time tonight so will continue tomorrow.

Hope all is well, lots of love xxx