Probably the most varied day of sightseeing I can remember. After crossing from Elephantine Island, where our hotel stands, on their own shuttle boat service, we began with the granite quarries, now close to the centre of the city, but the source of much of the granite used for temples and tombs throughout ancient Egypt, including at the pyramids. You can still see where blocks and obelisks were cut out of the rock and we learn about the techniques they used. We also have the chance to clamber around the quarries to see the famous "unfinished obelisk", which was partially cut but abandoned when they discovered cracks underneath - it would have been the biggest ever put up. Next stop is a drive into the desert to visit St Simeon's monastery, an abandoned fortified monastery, well preserved and with stunning views of desert and down over the city and the river (including, appropriately, Aswan's large Christian cathedral). It is good to find out more about the Christian part of Egypt's history, as well as ancient times and the Islamic heritage, and Magdi is the ideal guide, being a Christian himself. We are thankful to get these two visits out of the way early before the heat builds up too much, which it soon begins to do. By then, though, we are on our way back over to Philae temple for our "proper" guided visit. Just as impressive by day as at night, and Magdi once again picks out the most important elements of the site and what the carvings and inscriptions actually mean (not just what the pictures are of). Back on the mainland (!), the variety continues with a visit to the Brooke Animal Clinic, which we had read about and asked to see. It is run by a British charity and aims to provide veterinary care and education for working horses and donkeys in Egypt. They have several hospitals in cities, and mobile units that go out to the smaller villages to treat sick animals and to educate local people about how to care for and treat their animals better. The head of the clinic show us around the facilities and we also get to meet some of their current patients. What they are doing is so worthwhile, as horses and donkeys are used so much in agriculture, for transportation and in tourism, but standards of care and animal welfare are often lacking. After making a donation, and picking up some info, we return to our hotel for siesta time - the heat is up in the mid-40s Celsius in the early afternoon, a bit too hot for doing much more than relaxing by the pool or on our balcony with a cold drink and a book. But since when did we complain about chilling out and reading? Once the hottest part of the day has passed, we venture across the river to the city, being immediately accosted by a carriage driver, but the price he offers us for a tour is so good, we accept and climb aboard (making sure his horse looks in good condition, as the Brooke Clinic advise tourists to do). However, despite the friendliness of Ali and his son Mohammed, we are concerned that he pushes the horse too hard with reins and whip and ask him to stop and let us off, explaining the reason why (again, Brooke advice so tourists can help to get the message across to those who use animals in tourism). Although obviously concerned to see his passengers depart unhappy, Ali also seems genuinely contrite and asks if we will continue if he puts away the whip and restricts the pace. We agree to this and, to be fair to him, he sticks to his word and we have a very pleasant completion of the trip and find both he and his son to be very pleasant and friendly people. After our carriage ride, which needless to say included a couple of "friends'" market stalls, we venture for the first time into the tourist markets on our own. It is pretty much as we expect, with people calling out from almost every shop, all trying their own little phrases or tricks to get you inside. It is very good-humoured, however, and we have a laugh with many of the traders along the way. We buy a couple of presents, and I pick up a new leather belt, which I do need (and I haggle for it, which I hate doing). When the shopkeeper asks why I won't buy two, Sally-Jayne tells him it's because I only have one pair of trousers. Thankfully he sees the joke, otherwise we might still have been there as he tried to sell me a couple of pairs. We round off the evening with a drink at one of the floating restaurants on the Nile, which looks so nice we promise to return for lunch tomorrow.