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Breakfast was included in our package and we discovered there are Two Kakchiquel hotels, another across the street where we went to have breakfast!
We waited there for our tour to start not knowing what to expect. A young Lady called Sandra turned up on foot and a bit late and casually walked us along the streets to get the other people on our tour. Craig was waiting patiently too and we introduced ourselves. I turned out he is from Australia too! What a small world. We were the first Aussies he had met in 3 months as he had been touring Bolivia. He has been coming to South and Central America each year since 2010 and speaks fluent spanish.
We soon arrived at the lake and were handed over to our proper Guide for the day - Umberto, a fantastic person who knew the culture and the local people because he is Kakchiquel Mayan. he spoke good english too which was a bonus for me. The rest of our small party were Argentinians.
The trip across the lake was tranquil with great scenery at every turn, I love being on water. The mist still hadn't lifted so we only got to see glimpses of the three volcanoes that border the lake.
We were treated to a great demonstration of spinning cotton, hand dying and weaving in San Juan. Umberto explained that the local Mayan women had formed cooperatives selling their hand made goods to earn money for food and to educate their children as the sad fact is most Mayan men are alcoholics who spend all the money. 80% of the purchase price goes to the woman who makes the item (their name is on it) and 20% to the cooperative for running costs. The items are exquisite and intricate. it was hard not to buy more than I did!
Next place was a short boat trip away - San Pedro - the word denago means 'place of'. San Pedro is also know as Hippidenango because of all the gringo hippis who live there. Unfortunately it is a dirty smelly town with cheep clothes like in other western places. There were many signs saying selling or buying drugs is an offence. We could have left this place off our list. Saint Peter, who the place is named after would be sad. At least we got some good exercise as all the places around the lake are very hilly and the roads are steep.
Santiago de Largo Atitlan was lovely, more built up than San Juan, our first stop, but still lovely. After walking up another steep road we decided to have lunch at a Mayan Restaurant as suggested by Umberto. It was a good choice because the Pepian was delicious and filling. Umberto knew the owner/cook, who really looked after us.
At the church Umberto explained about how the Spanish destroyed the Mayan altar and build the church on top, but now the Mayan Shamans use the church for their ceremonies as well. He also explained a bit about the civil war that only ended in 1996! The local priest martyred himself to save his Mayan parishioners. Umberto said that when two sides fight who is left holding the broken plate? The downtrodden of course.
Next we were taken to the local house whose family was lucky enough to have the Mayan God, Maximon (pronounced Mash i mon) at their house for a year. This god smokes and drinks and you have to keep giving him these offerings or he will bring bad things to you. It is expensive to have him and they had given a whole house to him and were living else where. The shaman was there putting lighted cigarettes in his mouth and tipping him back and pouring rum down his throat. Money was in his clothes and at the altar for him. People make appointments with the Shaman so he can make intercessions to Maximon on their behalf. You can ask for good things or for him to do bad things to people who have slighted you. No photos were allowed.
Our return journey to Panajachel was relaxed and slow and we arrived in good time to wander the town again.
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