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The city of Cape Town has brought us many Cs these past few days; first stop, the city's Minstrel Carnival; second stop, Test Cricket at Newlands; third stop, Camps Bay's social hotspot (and celeb-hangout) Caprice. It's a country full of complexity and paradox, where history, tradition and past hurts colour the hopeful and dynamic (if slightly hectic) present. In just 7 days we feel privileged to have seen some fascinating extremes.
On the 2nd Jan, we headed to the city centre and stumbled across the famous Minstrel Carnival. The main streets of Cape Town were lined with hundreds of families, deck chairs and picnics at the ready and the most colourful display of umbrellas we've ever seen in a hot country. Not quite sure what everyone was waiting for, we heard the carnival coming before we saw it. Troupe after troupe of dancers and musicians of all ages boogied through the street with their faces painted (the Minstrel way) and dressed in flourescent suits, hats, feathers and even more umbrellas! The sound was infectious and we couldn't help but join in on the sidelines. A lucky find.
The next morning was an early start as we set off for the first day of the Test match between South Africa and Sri Lanka (that's cricket!). In true traveller spirit, we scoffed at the easier choice of a taxi ride to the stadium, instead opting for the cheaper 'experience' of the local train. Chiltern Railways has never looked so good...
Here's why:
Lingering segregation puts pressure on you to sit in 'first class', but at only one pound a ticket and no obvious difference from carriage to carriage, it felt like a strange barrier.
No shop in the station, just a little stall called 'Easy as Pie' - great, we thought. Just like home. But no water available, despite sweltering heat. Hmm.
We were given completely the wrong instructions and nearly went across the city in the wrong direction, to 'Pinelands' rather than 'Newlands'. It's close I guess. But Ben would not have been happy.
Eventually, we got the right platform (and carriage) but we had a full 45 minute wait before we got going.
Blind women are led up and down the train all day long, singing songs of praise and begging for change. Heartbreaking. Particularly if you've seen Slumdog Millionaire.
However, an experience it certainly was and we got to see some of the real Africa.
We arrived in one piece and there began...
Ben's Perfect Day
Sun, sport, beer, drinking games, crowd banter & a couple of centuries.
With Ben unable to be a neutral at any sporting event, we bought the replica South Africa cap and quickly became fully-fledged fans (being surrounded by thousands of them, we didn't have much choice). Blagging second-hand tickets and skipping the queue, we found ourselves on the front row with prime viewing position for a full day's play.
It was one of the best looking sporting venues Ben's ever seen, second only to Hillsborough (of course). Han came prepared for sunbathing and ample reading time, but didn't open a page, instead pestering Ben about the rules and layering up the suntan lotion. No burn - what an achievement.
Centuries for Kallis and Peterson meant it was a great day for our adopted team.
That night we packed up ready to move onto our second home of the trip, in the the Camps Bay area of the city. Bright and early the next morning, we checked out and hopped in a taxi (we caved this time) and there began...
Han's Perfect Day
Sand, sea, sun, skies, the 'Beautiful People' & Kir Royale.
How to describe Camps Bay?! Somewhere between Monaco, St. Tropez, Chelsea's Kings Road and Malibu Beach, it's an ultra-luxurious, chic and decadent catwalk where the rich and famous come to play. Totally out of place in our travelling gear and utterly overwhelmed by the OTT splendour of it all, we had to dig out our only shirt and dress before we could face our public. Essentially, it's a small strip with bars and restaurants and a very wavy coastline. But it's definitely got its own vibe and it's definitely treated as 'the place to be and be seen'.
And then there's our room. Did I mention our room?! Coming from a very basic hostel in the city centre, it feels like the height of luxury. In reality, it has a kettle, mugs and tea bags (YES!), a fridge (important to keep the chocolate chilled), a table and chairs (for, well, keeping things on) and, wait for it, a hairdryer! Who knew how much I'd miss a hairdryer?! And in this place, you need a little sprucing before heading out.
That night, after spending a perfect day at the beach and then our tranquil pool, we went for dinner at a restaurant called MezePoli (trying to rein it in by avoiding all Oyster Bars and bars with Veuve Cliquot umbrellas outside on our first night!). We started with a Kir Royale and beer (guess who had which). Heaven. Then we ordered halloumi - one each - double heaven. This place has got me all gooey.
The last three days have been more like a beach holiday than a city break, and that's the contrasting beauty of Cape Town. It's got it all. But the less beautiful, more intriguing contrast, is the huge wealth and indulgence compared to poverty, crime and dangerous underground. There are so many sides to this place.
Last night we met up with Justin, an ex-colleague of Ben's who hails from Jo'Burg. He promised to show us the nightlife of Camps Bay and he duly delivered. We moved from a fancy restaurant with a couple of bottles of the Cape's finest Pinotage, onto a beachfront bar called 'Caprice' (no, not another debatable celebrity spot, Lakson!). Apparently this is where the likes of Daniel Craig and George Clooney hang out every summer. We didn't see them.
At 2am we thought the night had ended well and were walking home along the strip when Justin shouts, in his strong South African accent, "D'you hear those beats?? I hear beats! I want to find those beats!!" After a couple of dead-ends, up in a lift, back down an escalator searching for the cause of the sounds, we eventually found ourselves inside a private rooftop party. Lining up the Jaeger Bombs and throwing some 'lakker' shapes, I don't think we quite fitted in with the understated elegance of the Aston Martin-driving, Prada-wearing regulars. But we had more fun!
Tomorrow we depart Cape Town and head inland to Stellenbosch to stay with a friend. Stellenbosch is both a university town and a wine region, so who knows what we'll get up to...
We're literally LOVING all your comments because it feels like we're chatting to you. So please keep them coming and send us your news.
Until the next post...
Han & Ben xxxx
- comments
Megan Hi Han & Ben, A belated Happy New Year from us!! Great to hear your news, really enjoying reading about your adventures! All sounds good. Fine here, although I'm chasing deadlines as usual and Danae's studying really hard. Let's hope 2012 brings us all whatever we wish for! Lots of love, Megan & the girls xx
Jill Roderick Hannah and Ben, what a wonderful cocktail of events and experiences you’re having! You describe it so evocatively; we can almost smell and taste it. Keep enjoying the variety and freshness as you go along, positive and challenging. We woke up yesterday to a kitchen ceiling dripping in several places with all the rain and mega winds we’ve been having in Sheffield. Thankfully, it has now been mended and the ceiling is no longer dripping! Also the wind gave way to a beautiful day of blue sky and sunshine today – at least till late afternoon when it reverted to more normal winter weather… Are you still struggling with the technology gods? Fingers crossed on that one as looking forward to photos. Oodles of love to you both. Mum & Dad/Jill & Phil xx
Sarah Landstrom Hi you two! It sounds like you are having a truely wonderful time. Your blog is brilliant, it's like I can see what you are describing! It certainly sounds a lot nicer than drab old England! I can't wait to see any photos which you have taken. Take care of each other and stay safe. Enjoy every minute and make the most of every oppotunity. Lots of love Dan, Sarah and Evie xx
Lucinda Hello lovelies!!! It's so nice to hear all about what you're up to - it sounds like such an amazing adventure! I have a question though. Isn't stellanbosch the region responsible for making that well known wine variety rozaldini?!! I hope you'll have lots of glasses got Oli and i (he says hi by the way). I really miss you guys but am so pleased you're having so much fun. Love you both lots and keep in touch! Are you checking facebook too? I'll probs send you some more messages on there you see... BIG love, Lubear xxx
Judith Good morning, what wonderful and colourful descriptions and really does bring it alive. SA is truly that mix of wonder, beauty and poverty and distress. It pulls you in different directions emotionally all the time doesn't it? I am so glad you are having such a good time and look forward to hearing about the wine lands. Love you. Judith/Mxx
Lakson Who is Daniel Craig?! xxx
Lisa Right, I have now found your blog and what a fantastic way it is to diarise your experiences. It all sounds fabulous - no wonder my mother-in-law has just emigrated to CT at 84 ..... perhaps she has known all along about the 3 C's ? Your trip to Stellenbosch will be spectacular - it is one of the most beautiful parts of the Cape. Enjoy xxx
SRG 'Lakker' - heehee yeah boi! Absolutely loving the blog guys, the train story brings me back to this time last year! (Next time you'll totally get the taxi) Lots of love & have fun! Pat pat xxx