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And we got through! After a sleepless night (at least me) just before the border, the crossing went as smoothly as we could even imagine. Our main worry was to get the motorbike through and avoid the Laos police to send us back as it happened to other tourists at other crossings more south. However, based on Vietnamese bikers in Hanoi, the border we chose would have been a safe bet, because of its isolated position and little traffic. Nameo is in fact located at more than a 1000 meter high and connected via a tiny mountain road leading to the most remote province of Laos neglected by trade and tourists. Cut long story short, we didn't even have to bribe any officials neither at the Vietnamese nor at the Laos side and in less than 30 minutes paper work, we found ourselves pushing (not allowed to have the engine on) the motorbike through the gate.
Laos revealed itself in all its wild beauty as soon as the border was crossed. We left the cloudy and muggy weather behind to finally have some powerful sunshine and the landscape changed from well irrigated rice fields to dry land, resting before the new agricultural season. Roads were empty, the landscape scarcely populated and the few people met on the road were so happy to see Falangs (Westerns), that they timidly smiled at us continuously saying - Sabadee- a mix of hello and how are you , that represents the national word.
Our first destination was Vieng Xai after only but mountainous 50 kms from the border, village of particular interest because it represented the official and hidden headquarter of the Pathe Lao socialist movement during the Vietnam war. Laos was officially neutral but an unofficial war was fought here to avoid that a socialist movement like the Pathe Lao took over the country. As a consequence the Americans heavily bombed Laos, making it the most bombed country ever by population. Unexploded bombs still represent a huge problem, almost similar to the Cambodian land mines issue.
Vieng Xai has now been turned into a bucolic small mountain village, where tourists can visits the caves where the Pathet Lao lived for 15 years hiding from the American bombs. It was amazing to see the level of organizations these people managed to reach to survive for such a long time in the caves. Just to make an example, when we toured the site, we found out that there was a theater and a hospital both underground. We had the pleasure to visit the private residence/cave of the Red Price, a member of the Laotian royal family turned to the communist ideology and guerrilla, who lived in Vieng Xay until his death in 1995 and well after the liberation on 1975.
Our following destination was Sam Neua, the provincial capital of this remote area, famous for its textile weaving, Hmong ethnic minorities and an amazing archeological site. We settled in brand new guesthouse and fed ourselves at a decent restaurant that finally had a menu in English. Laos is in fact touristically less developed than Vietnam, with more basic food, little internet connections and close to zero knowledge of English. The result is less than 10-15 western tourists staying in town every day, turning them in the tourist attractions for the locals.
The highlight was visit to the archeological site in the provice. After 60 kms by car, 6 on a dirt road and 3 by foot, we reached this amazing funerary site with tombs and standing Menhir dating 2000 years b.c. Since the French archeological expedition that found the site back in 1931, little has been discovered since and nothing is known about the civilization that developed the site.
A couple of curios episodes spiced up our first encounter with Laos making the place ever more surprising. In Vieng Xai, after having another small problem with the bike (a leaking gasoline tank), we bumped into a small group of Indians based there that helped us out with the bike, thanks to their perfect English. These guys were from Calcutta and were stationed in Laos working for an Indian mining company digging iron in Laos to then sell it to the Chinese!
And the following day, we visited the local hospital so that Mandy could have a small stomachache checked, and she was taken care of by a crew of doctors from Cuba on an exchange program in Laos. Socialist countries seem to help each other still! One of the doctors was so funny when he confessed he was having a sexual frustration problem with his family in Cuba and no Laotian girlfriend that wanted him unless he would have married her. We laughed about it and told him to keep strong as at the end of this year he will go back. Anyway, Laotian hospital efficiency surprised us and the level of professionalism was shocking. We should definitely change perception of developing countries or maybe we should learn from Socialist countries? The Italian healthcare system would definitely have something to learn from this provincial hospital in the most remote area of Laos.
We will now continue heading north towards the wild mountains close to China. It will take us few days and we doubt we will be able to get online up there. We will keep you posted!
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