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Railay Pt 1
This is why we came here... Less than 15 minutes from the long tail pier in Ao Nang is the first of 4 beaches - Ton Sai. It's hard to believe that such a short trip away this place existed. Completley different world from the seaside resort feel of Ao Nang. We hadn't got a foot out of longtail taxi boat before we were greeted by a real friendly Canadian - Krystina (the unofficial Railay Queen tour guide!) Quickly we were brought up to speed about how the 'Island' was laid out (It's not really an island it's just not accessible by road altho still connected to the mainland)
Soon after we had checked ourselves into our new home - Ton Sai bungalows; we made our way down to the beach for some lunch. A couple of fresh fruit shakes and Pad Thai (Thai noodles - an institution) ordered, we took in our surroundings. The limestone karsts (rocks or cliffs) here are even more prevailiant and dramatic here than anywhere we have seen yet in Thailand. Thie is Rock Climber holy land - a mecca for those chilled out dudes and dudettes who have carved out the physique most of us only see on baywatch and they have never even set foot in a gym!! Our beachfront was set in teh back drop of one of the climbs. While we were eating a couple had scaled an impressive 100 metres plus and were abseiling down intent on going back up again.
We met Krystina after paying for lunch (3 quid)in the short time we had left her hshe had met someone else who had just as much knowledge as her about Railay and we were introduced to Thomas. He had travelled here before nad spent alot of time on Railay; and then we were off onto the "path" onto the next beach - Krystina's description hadn't quite prepared us for what followed but it certainly made us apprecite the otherside a whole lot more! We came out on Railay west beach - nicer than Ton Sai but clearly caterinfg to the higher enfd holiday market. Nicer accomadation and views; more money and people always trying to sell you something. We then made our way to Railay east; ; loads more going on here with the budget traveller in mind and plenty of building attempting to rise out of the mangroves - I say attempting becuase speak to anyone and they will tell how hot and smelly it is at night on the stretch of "beach" (I use the term loosely) The jewel of Railay's crown is Phra Nang only accessible from Railay east; you can only stay here if you banking serious money and if so it's unlikely to be a regular job with monthly pay! We stepped out to be greeted by the most amazing stretch of white snady beach and see through emerald green waters, with some natural decoration of one of them limestone karst thrown in for good measure, right on the shoreline. We almost didn't see it though as on the pathway there we had to negotiate our way around a snake. At firts we weren't too worried - but when you see a native guy who was coming the other way, move like the wind whilst carrying the days's catch of fish - It told us all we needed to know about how to proceed!
We spent an amazing night watching the sunset and getting to know our new friends and hosts bette and then after tryng to get home half cut in the dead of night on a longtail boat... We both knew before we went to sleep that night that we will be coming back here and there is still so much more to see and do...
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