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November 9-11, 2009- Liverpool, UK- Couchsurfing with Tyrese
Despite my true love and affinity for the Beatles and all oldies but goodies really, I'd have to say that my experience in Liverpool was less about the Fab 5 and more about appreciating the gritty charm of an old sea-side industrial city that is transforming into one of England's main cultural hubs. Sure, I visited The Cavern, the club where the group was said to have formed, but other than that I avoided the tourist trail that includes "Strawberry Field" and "Penny Lane"- and instead trudged by own path of cathedral, museum and docks.
I arrived via bus from Bristol and was greeted by my capital host Tyrese! He had taken off his lunch break just to meet me, which pretty much sums up the type of guy he is- genuine, kind, and a bit sarcastic- he definitely tried to play off my gullible side quite frequently but we had some great conversation all the same. He took me back to his studio, gave me one of only two things in his pantry that was vegetarian (out of 4 things in total) and sent me on my way with a map he grabbed from the bus station. I set out to "get my bearings" or as I like to call it "getting lost and finding my way again" and naturally headed first to the water.
Making my way there the mist started to settle in as if to only build the character of the setting all the more. Liverpool is beautiful, underneath the layer of black that has latched on to the grey stone over the years. Even the people look just a little rough around the edges. The setting is eerie as a fog settles over old wooden boats moored on the docks. The old industrial look of the sea-side and town in contrast to the new development of a Liverpool Musuem amongst other things, reflects this town as a place rising out of a blue collared past. I take area pictures to capture the foggy scene and am on way- promising to return again the next day to visit the Albert Docks, home of the Tate Modern (Liverpool Branch). I stop in at the Cavern Club, the Beatles beginning, because I couldn't not and enjoy the buzz of St. John's Square while shopping for the food that will keep me going the next day or so (mmmm soup and crumpets). Yes, I said crumpets- have to get my fix before I leave Jolly Ol England
The next day is more of the same, gloomy and misty, but I would still like to call it my first day of directional success so that redeems things for me. I truly did a large loop of the city and managed to see all I planned to and even got some internet time in at the Library- go me.
First stop was the Liverpool Cathedral- a deceptive little b***** that from first glance looked Gothic but upon further reading was built in the 20th century. Still gorgeous inside, I lit a candle, said a prayer and went out to explore the interesting grounds where old 19th century tomb stones were used as part of the décor- I guess they can't piss off the inhabitants if they are dead, but I'd have felt a bit violated if my grave was used for decoration. Made for interesting pictures, however. I made my way down to the docks to visit the Tate Liverpool, all I have to say is I've never seen so many urinals used as art. Entertaining but not particularly fulfilling. I spent some time in the city center- Lime Street, St. John's Square and in general wandering before heading up to the so tokened "cultural center" to visit the Walker Art Museum and Liverpool World Museum. Egyptians, Sea Life and Dinosaurs oh my! The World Museum in Liverpool was large and diverse for a free museum in a lesser large city, but nothing to spend a whole day in. I would say the same for the Walker Art Museum, a nice collection but not particularly cosmopolitan. After a short jaunt in the Library, I head back amongst the darkened buildings that seem unable to illuminate even in the lamp light. With curious eyes, I have appreciated the character that Liverpool has and taken in as much as possible in one day- time to crash for another night.
I know Tyrese was thinking I wasn't the most exciting company because I couldn't find the energy to go out either night but, what can I say, I want to save my energy for Spain, I know the hours they like to keep! Vamos a Madrid!
Cheers,
Emily
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