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Getting the direct bus to Medellin turned out to be a good option with a comfy bus with air con and wifi even it wasn't as direct as it should have been and took an hour an half longer than expected.
Arriving in the Poblado district where my hostel, Purple Monkey, was reminded me of Palermo in Buenos Aires - chic restaurants and shops in leafy roads filled with high quality cars. It gave the area a safe feel and felt very Western. That night I had an excellent steak and chatted to my room mate before falling asleep.
My first day I did very little - catching up on shopping and administration. Malou and Lotta arrived that afternoon and we walked to Parque Lleras which is the main clubbing spot in the evenings before heading back to the hostel for food and drinking in the hostel bar.
The next day I had booked an afternoon walking tour around the downtown area. We learn a lot about how Colombia developed and about Paisas (people from Medellin) and their attitudes. Of course they could not fail to mention drugs and Pablo Escobar but the main feeling was upbeat and how peolpe are glad to see tourists as it means they are putting their past behind them. The tour took us through the central commercial district, through Botero Square with 23 Botero bronze statues finishing at the site of the bombing that had taken place exactly 21 years ago killing 30 people. The explosive blew up the Botero bird statue and the artist persuaded them to leave it there and desgined a new sttue to symbolise the past and future of the city. The guide was so good I was choking back the tears at this point!
Next day was an early start with a trip to Guatape and El Penol del Guatape as 200+m rock with views over the man made lake that flooded the old village of El Penol.
We first visited the old vilage of Marinilla then the new (38 years old) village built by the government for the displaced people when the women refused money that their husbands would just spend in the pub!
The hike up the rock takes you up around 700 steps but the views were amazing. After this walk we went for lunch, a boat trip around the lake and then a walk around Guatape. The village is unique due to the concrete reliefs on the houses. Each house must have one or be colourfully painted or plain brick and the reliefs normally are traditional designs, occupational or relevant to the family - not sure what the giraffes and zebras meant!
That night I stayed in the hostel to watch the football (getting to bed at 2 and up at 7 had tired me out) - not a good game and left the young ones to party!
On Sunday I headed to Comune 13, the former killing squad barrio, now transformed by covered escalotors giving the locals access to jobs other that drug cartels. The views across the city were great as were the street art. After this a group of us headed to the football Medellin Independente v Cortulau in the last semi final. The atmosphere in the ground was great but the first half affirmed all I hate about football - boring, diving and just silly! The second half was better but the real excitement came when they ended up tied over the two legs so 40 minutes of penalties followed which Medellin finally winning 8 penalties to 7. The crowd went wild with chanting, singing and crying!
My last morning in Medellin I went up the Santa Domingo cable car - another initiative to improve life for the poor. After that I went to the Museo de Antioquia where there are lots of Botero's statues and paintings as well as other paintings he had bought and donated.
I headed to the airport for what should have been a simple 1 hour trip but the flight was delayed by 6 hours as the plane was stuck in San Andres meaning I had to eat a Burger King I had to pay for myself as Viva Colombia is so stingy! My flight finally left at midnight!
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