When we arrived at Nkhata Bay it was still dark and raining but with the Ilala docking for a couple of hours and us a little uncomfortable about finding our lodge in the dark, we stayed put and waited for the sun to come up. Whilst waiting we discovered a number of crates filled with bags of live fish, and as we were watching them being unloaded we probed as to their destination. Apparently they were endemic Malawian cichlids bound for the European market, and this surprised us. I guess it sort of makes sense, Id seen these fish in aquariums but had just never really thought where they had come from, and even if I had Im sure I would have assumed they had been bred overseas, but here they were preparing thousands of live fish (they were discarding hundreds of dead ones) to send them half way across the world.It was immediately obvious that touts were a problem in Nkhata Bay aswell as we were repeatedly hassled by a drunken local to follow him to the lodge. He was a little suss to us, and we didn't want his help anyway but he persisted and eventually followed us all the way to Myoka village lodge where we had arranged to meet back with Paul and Susie. It was a tiring 20 min walk in the light rain and with all our gear, and when we arrived it was barely 6am and management were still in bed. Myoka village was set on a steep terraced hillside overlooking a beautiful bay surrounded mostly by lush tropical forest. It was a great setting, and had it not been raining the boulder fringed cove and enticing blue water would have put us in an instant good mood. But we were tired and damp, and in need of more sleep, so we lay down on the smelly couch seats at the bar and tried to doze off, failing miserably.We ordered breakfast, and when the sun came out our mood lightened. We met up again with.Paul and Susie and swapped stories of the past 10days before setting up camp. The sun was trying its best to penetrate the light cloud, but it was sufficiently warm enough to hit the water which was amazingly refreshing. I swam to a pontoon maybe 100m from the shore and hauled myself on top of it. With noone else around it was peaceful and quiet and as I lay there, absorbing the weak rays and dozing in and out of consciousness I muttered to myself, "hows the serenity?". I could've stayed there for hours but I had planned a walk to town with the others and so had to return to shore. Boner, Kaz and I wandered into town. It was a typical Malawian town really, fairly unremarkable and after exploring the market and changing some cash we were left with nothing to do but find ourselves some lunch. The wait was painful and the food definitely not worth the wait and eventually we made our way back to Myoka. Kaz was feeling unwell, perhaps she just needed some sleep so whilst she caught some shut-eye, Boner and I returned to town to watch the local football and knock back a couple of beers. It was immediately obvious this was a higher level than we had seen previously as MOST of the players were actually wearing shoes, and the standard impressed me. One of the guys in particular seemed extremely talented, and when we asked the question we were told he had apparently played in the Malawian national youth team. Given the chance I am sure he would not have looked out of place playing a decent grade in Europe, but unfortunately for him I don't think the scouts were at Nkhata Bay this day.When we returned to Myoka late afternoon Karen had gotten much worse, she had begun firing both ends, be freezing cold one minute and then boiling hot the next and her fever had gone through the roof. There was little I could do but tend to her, help her to the bathroom and hope that she would soon feel better.The following morning Kaz had improved a little, but although we had planned to move, in her current state we were going nowhere. She spent the majority of the day lying in the tent and myself at the bar reading month old newspapers and intermittently checking she was ok.Seeing it as possibly my last opportunity I went for 1 last dip in the lake, before helping Kaz out of bed and up to the bar. Unfortunately for Kaz, there were free Mojitos on offer that afternoon but she was in no state to take advantage of managements generosity and instead I drank her share for her. It wasn't long before Kaz was back in bed though, and after an overpriced and extremely average steak (remind me never to take a recommendation of a good steak from a Brit) I refrained from kicking into party mode despite the lure of more free booze, and instead headed to bed as well.Kaz awoke feeling well enough to move on and after packing up we were on our way to Mzuzu.