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Another poor nights sleep, in Mane this time pondering where to next. But also a noisy Spaniard talking loudly on his phone till 10.30 and when I awoke at 12 midnight he was still chatting loudly.
My initial warm response from Carl Baker evaporated as they have friends staying. I started to consider re tracing some of my TET France however the mountains which is the riding I love so much are closed due to Fire risk and some trails due to the biggest fire in France in 20 years. Lots of negative comments on the TET forum te riders dodging around or even considering riding in France TET.
The non mountain trails in France are either closed or very agricultural as in fields that does not float my boat at all.
So overnight I thought of Italy again and … the … pass. I have unfinished business there as it was closed in 2019 due to rock fall and I went to the closed point. I will also be very close to Rob Wall and a catch up would be unbelievable.
It was Liz that reminded me I love camping wild and Italy and the … passo de Somellier that would definitely fit the bill. I feel this would be an awesome way to finish my trip on a veritable and actual high point.
So slow start and packing with several coffees the Spaniards children admiring my bike as I left (noting they did not ride till after 10 am). Have to say (don’t tempt fate…) the new camping bed and my new bike knicks seemed to have done the trick amazingly my back felt good.
I started out retracing my steps and that familiar blue dotted line, (through .., JO sorry) however by 3 pm I had only covered about 160 km of back roads to my destination of Bardonecchia near Turin the closest town to my mountain stage.
While the roads were interesting and lumpy and full of nice surprises (including riding through the centre of Carcassone, great memories of my holiday with Liz) the going was slow very slow.
So Autoroute and Payage it is … stopped filled up - blimey 15 litres in a 16 litre tank that was cutting it too close!
Started off going 100-110 km hr saving my tyres - but soon got bored and had angst in middle lane with vehicles approaching me at speed, so upped to 120-130 which is the limit.
In my mind needed to get there (600 km) in two days as Thursday is a non motorised day so would aim for Wed being the pass ride day. That meant a big day today … aiming for less than 250 Km left Tuesday. That means a huge 360 km day today. While normally that would not seem a lot of Km remember I’ve only done 160 by 3 pm, nursing a bad back and this would be the biggest ride day of my entire trip (8.5 hours).
Came off Payage around 645 pm and got a huge shock almost 60 Euros 💶 bloody hell! may have been a mistake and a car price. Cars behind me backing up beeping and shouting instructions they did not know I had ear plugs in so simply swiped the card.
Went to closest motel - air conditioning bliss as a huge storm was brewing the air was thick hot, damp and humid. Best price 80 euro 💶 no thanks I’m on a budget. Kept riding and found myself north east of the town, … thought camping it must be. Google first site was no more a further … 7 Km to Camping a la Ferme. The road got narrower i passed other vehicles in the ditch.
A small farmlet opened out hand written signs in black paint. Lots of abandoned caravans with wooden shacks joined to them. This could be an interesting experience…
A local “inmate” pointed me in the right direction…for the office.
A small shack (see image) in a ramshackle farm with what seemed like abandoned caravans but the fire exhausts told me different.
Welcoming … English speaking host said did I want a receipt
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